Cheap Suits

Types Of Wool

2011-11-24T23:55:00.001-08:00

Merino

The Merino is the most economically influential breed of sheep in the world, prized for its wool. Superfine Merinos are regarded as having the finest and softest wool of any sheep.

Merino sheep produce a clean, white fleece ideal for dying to clear, fresh colours, while the long, fine fibres can be spun to the finest count, woven into the finest fabric and tailored into the finest suits.

The wool has characteristic crimp and elasticity, creating unparalleled style, drape, comfort and performance for the wearer. The handle and lustre is of exceptional softness and kindness to the touch, unlike any other fibre.

For hundreds of years, Merino flocks were the exclusive property of the Spanish Crown and wealthy nobles. King Alfonso of Spain forbade the export of Merino from the 14th Century for over 400 years because of the wool’s value to the Spanish economy. In the 18th Century, the King of Spain gave the finest of these coveted flocks to the powerful rulers in Saxony, France and Great Britain. This gift of Kings was eventually shipped to the farthest reaches of the world, including South Africa, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia, where the treasured Merino sheep flourished.

The refined, unique Merino fleece is shorn once a year and is analyzed for micron, colour and brightness, comfort, fibre length and strength amongst other measures of quality. The fineness of Merino wool is measured by its micron value: the lower the number, the finer and better the quality.

Cashmere

The Cashmere goat is to be found principally on the cold and dry highlands of Central Asia at 3,000 to 5,000metres above sea level. From here the wool travels across India and past the Himalayan Mountains, to China, where it is distributed to mills throughout the western world.

Cashmere was first discovered by the nobility of Victorian England and subsequently became one of the most prestigious fibres of the noble fibre family. The low bulk, high loft fibres combine to make the warmest, most comfortable garments money can buy. In softness, warmth and fineness of fibre cashmere is comparable to Vicuna. Cashmere is appropriate for all climates as the high moisture absorbency rate allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties in varying conditions of relative humidity. The finest fibres are gathered from the saddle of the Cashmere goat and are harvested by carefully combing the goat’s fleece during the spring months. Cashmere cloths are luxurious with a soft and seductive handle, beautiful drape and timeless appeal.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mens Vintage Clothing

2011-08-18T22:44:00.001-07:00

ZOOT SUITS

Worn first by rebellious black and hispanic teenagers on both coasts in the late 20s/30s as a statement against the majority, the zoot was soon picked up by musicians and dancers in the early 1940s and even found its way into mainstream fashion.
The zoot jacket is oversized, wide-shouldered, and hangs almost to the knees. Often, it is double-breasted with wide, low lapels. Zoot pants are low-crotched and high-waisted, often coming halfway up the torso. They are deeply pleated at the waist (generally two or three mammoth pleats on each side) and generously cut at the knee. Zoot pants taper sharply at the ankle to end in a deep cuff that rests on the shoes. The width at the ankle is generally only be as wide as needed to get over the heel (though some men had zippers sewn into their cuffs to get a tighter fit) and the cuff was 1-2" deep.
The fabric for zoot suits was like the suits themselves - dramatic and overstated. The fabric was either brightly colored or boldly patterned with wide pinstripes or glen check. With fabric, the bolder the better - the goal was to distinguish oneself from the mainstream.

OXFORD BAGGIES

Oxford Baggies originated on the campus of Oxford University, England, during the summer of 1920. The full cut of these pants and cuff with a circumference of 22 inches allowed students to easily slip them on over their beloved knickers, which had been banned by the University. Unlike the ZOOT SUITS, Oxford Baggies were more socially accepted and worn by the masses.

JAZZ SUIT

Jazz clothing surfaced in 1919 as a new music called Jazz was first being performed. This JAZZ SUIT, identified by it's extremely trim, tight/pinched look, was worn by those in the theatrical profession. As seen in World War One uniforms the jacket has a unique waist seam.

SACQUE SUITS

Sacque Suits were worn by the common man from the 1850's - 1920's. They were appropriate for all but the dressiest occasions. Full cut Jacket with 4 button high gorge and trousers are straight cut and without cuffs.
Sacque's modern styling comes by way of its short, slim-fitting jacket and its low-rise, straight-leg pant. Together they create a sleek, contemporary look.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Best Winter Suits For Men

2010-01-17T20:01:00.001-08:00

When the snow starts falling and the temperature in the thermometer drops way low, often times fashion goes right out the window. While its understandable to trade aesthetics for functionality, it isn't necessarily needed when it comes to the realm of men's suits. For many parts of the country, putting together a winter business wardrobe is a stylish way of keeping warm that is all too often overlooked. If you enjoy men's suits, one thing is for sure, you will enjoy keeping warm and cozy in the richness of textures and patterns available in the winter suiting fabrics.

It All Starts with the Fabrics

For winter, suits require a heavy and big type cloth, stuff that is all at once beefy and elegant. Most suits made for winter in the US features nothing more than heavy gabardine, which just creates a heavy look that doesn't drape well at all. Another down side to this is that most finely finished wool doesn't preform well in the elements. Snow and Rain have tendency to break down the yarn of these "high twist" suit fabrics causing a fuzzy texture and when pressed, a shiny finish.

The best winter suits feature variations of English tweed and flannel. Both are hard to describe but instantly recognizable, incredibly elegant and when worn during winter, very, very functional. Tweed features a "mill" finish that gives it its distinct look. The way the yarn is twisted creates a soft and naturally weather resistant barrier that keeps moisture out but heat in. When the yarn is woven it seem to be a blending of different shades, which creates the rich depth of color. Flannel is a finer more "finished" version of tweed, created to be more suitable for the offices and courtrooms, than the sporting beginnings of the original. Also naturally weather resistant, Flannel creates a lighter look with out giving up the functionality. Flannel is more commonly seen today, while tweed, on the other hand, is almost non existent in off the rack brands. This forces aficionados to look towards tailored custom suits for their tweed fix.

The Cut of a Winter Suit

When choosing the best cut for your winter suit, look for something that is less constructed and a little roomier than your fall and spring clothing. The reason for an unconstructed suit is that the heavier fabrics will be able to give the suit body and shape with out the need for much canvas or padding. This is ideal for those wanting the look of a winter suit with out the bulk. A roomier fit, on the other hand, is recommend to allow for a little more layering. Sweaters, scarves and gloves are all the winter wardrobe mainstays and you will need a little more room to layer it all and still be comfortable.

Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Important Points Need To Consider While Selecting Double Breasted Suit

2009-12-23T21:50:00.001-08:00

The return of the much-hyped original 1980’s power suit is slated for this fall season. Most of the major designers of men’s apparels, ranging from Armani, Zegna and Tom Ford, featured their double-breasted suit in their collections during the recent NY fashion week. While what may seem, at first, the same piece as that of the 80’s power suit, many major differences, in abundant measure, can be noted in this latest incarnation of the double-breasted suit which makes it a more trendy piece of clothing.

The double-breasted suit dates back to a time much earlier than the 1980’s. It is remembered as a Reagan era suit which one would wear when he meant business. The main point is that these suits were cut the 80’s way as it featured wider lapels, huge shoulder padding, low button stances, triple-pleated trousers and a high rise. Slim and trim, tailored silhouette forms today’s modern double-breasted suit’s best design. In simple words, there is a huge difference between the 1980’s version and today’s.

Darker colors are always the way to go. This is one fact that hasn’t changed all through the years when it comes to double-breasted suits. A darker suit matches almost everybody’s skin tone and also conveys the expression of authority. Almost every CEO owns a closet full of dark suits. Choose a suit in either a dark black charcoal or a navy blue color. Soft and subtle patterns go well with double-breasted suits as they don’t necessarily require help from any type of bold fabrics and also manage to attract enough attention.

Double-breasted suits can be kept buttoned which in turn will give you a slim look. Consider wearing a tie along with the suit even though it would seem a little stuffy. But, then again, this is another reason why the double-breasted suits became the power suit of the 1980’s and 30 years later too, it is still said to be so.

A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. Tall and thin gentlemen would benefit greatly from double-breasted suits as these suits would give them a matching appearance to their physique. These suits can however draw attention to the midsection in the case of men of heavy stock. Therefore, careful attention is required and an expert tailor must be employed.

Lapels can be found with a number of options in a variety of styles. The width of the lapels is always considered an important factor with the extremely-narrow lapels of the 1950’s standing in stark contrast to the excessively-wide lapels of the 1970’s. However, lapels of moderate width are considered timeless in the case of classic fashion. Suit lapels also come in two styles in accordance with different widths. The two styles are: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the joint. Both notched and peaked lapels are equally classic. Although peaked lapels are often found on double-breasted jackets.

The flap-like slits found at the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets are known as vents. Jackets usually have three styles: center, side, and none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits. Even though it can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down, they provide a sleek look to the back of the jacket. Center-vented jackets, usually very popular on American suits, have only a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access.

These are some of the points that need to be taken into consideration before selecting a double-breasted suit

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Groom Tuxedos For Wedding Cermonies

2009-12-07T21:25:00.001-08:00

of a wedding ceremony in the presence of parents, friends and relatives is definitely exciting. A wedding is special in everyone’s life. On this special occasion, the bride looks spectacular in a wedding gown, while the groom looks grand by wearing a tuxedo. Groom tuxedos play an important role in a wedding ceremony. Depending on the vests, dress style and shirt design, tuxedos should be selected to match. Men are more passionate, they have a desire of becoming the center of attraction on their wedding ceremony.

Groom tuxedos are made of special materials. These tuxedos are designed by professional fashion designers. They are designed with utmost care so that grooms look smart at the time of their wedding. Different types of tuxedos like formal Groom tuxedos, traditional groom tuxedos, black wedding tuxedos, etc, are available in the market. Generally in a wedding ceremony, a bride dominates the scene by wearing stylish wedding gowns, and brighter wedding jewelry. In order to match her fashion, and gather attention from visitors, a groom should wear a modern tuxedo.

Depending on the personality of a groom, his tuxedo can be selected. Grooms who have a lean appearance should look for single breasted jackets having long lines, wide peak lapels and low stance buttons. Options like double breasted groom tuxedos or a subtle pattern vest and tie that can be used by slender men. Shorter grooms should select athletic Groom tuxedos. Athletic groom tuxedos, match with appearance of short men. They fit well, and appear more dignified. In order to bring style for short men, athletic tuxedos are fitted with buttons at the bottom.

Tall and handsome grooms use different Groom tuxedos. These people prefer shawl collar tuxedos. Shawl collar tuxedos match the height and personality of a tall groom. Jacket length plays an important role in case of tall men. The size of the jacket should be long enough to fit his hands comfortably. Grooms, who have a thick neck and wide face, should avoid wearing a tie on these tuxedos. Wearing a tie spoils the appearance of the tuxedo. Tall and slim grooms should prefer double breasted groom tuxedos. These tuxedos have jacket buttons at the top.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

More On Topstitching

2009-11-24T22:05:00.001-08:00

What is it?
Topstitching is a single or multiple set of lines of stitching showcased on the garment right side, either for decorative or functional purposes. It's found on many types of garments, from sporty to formal, tailored to heirloom. The term is often used interchangeably with edge stitching, though generally topstitching refers to a stitching line about 1/4" from the edge or a style line, such as seaming or pockets. Edge stitching, as its name suggests, is done very close to the edge. Occasionally, both types of stitching are used in a single design area. For example, a collar may be both edge stitched and topstitched. Topstitching helps to hold garment layers in place and keep edges flat, or it may be a means of attachment for a design feature, like a pocket or band. On a collar or lapel edge, the added stitching keeps facings rolled under and gives a structured look.

Thread Tricks
Because topstitching is meant to be seen as a design detail, it's often done with a contrast and/or heavy weight of thread for prominence. Many thread companies make a "topstitching weight" in basic colors, and a sometimes in a variety of fibers, including silk.

Topstitching can also be done using regular sewing-weight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color. It's also possible to put two all-purpose threads through a single needle to make a more visible stitching line.

Stitch Smarts
Most topstitching is sewn with a straight stitch, using a slightly longer length than is used for garment construction. When using topstitching thread, it's imperative to lengthen the stitch to create a good quality stitch.
Topstitching can also be done using a triple straight stitch, where the machine actually stitches backward and forward in the same line, creating a more prominent look.
Decorative machine stitches can be used for topstitching if they seem appropriate to the garment styling.

Thinking Straight
Since topstitching is highly visible, it's important that the stitching lines are perfectly straight. Most machines have a presser foot where the distance from the needle to the foot edge is 1/4", which can be used as a guide.
Some machine brands also offer a 1/4" topstitching foot, with a raised edge guide, either fixed or adjustable.

Twice as Nice
Topstitching can also be done using a twin needle to create two rows of straight stitching on the garment right side, spanned by a zigzag on the underside. The two threads may be the same or differing colors. This technique is often used on knits for hemming.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How to Choose The Right Suit Which Compliment Your Body Type

2009-10-25T20:12:00.000-07:00

In this article we will discuss the parts that make up a man's suit. Although off the rack suits afford you little flexibility in adjusting these parts, the man who goes with a bespoke or made to measure suit has the freedom of choosing the option that best compliment his body. In any case, all men should understand the basics of the suit and its parts so that they buy a garment that accentuates their most positive traits.

Single or Double Breasted

The first and perhaps most noticeable element of the suit is whether it is single or double-breasted. Single-breasted suits have a single row of buttons down the front, and the jacket flaps only overlap enough to permit buttoning. A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons, and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. The choice between single- and double-breasted is a matter of personal taste, though the vast majority of American men choose single breasted suits as that this is what is readily available to them; also a lack of familiarity with the double-breasted option may account for the single-breasted suit's dominance. Thin gentlemen, particularly those who are somewhat taller, can benefit greatly from double-breasted suits, as they will give a fuller appearance to the figure; on larger men, double-breasted suits can have a tendency to draw attention to the midsection, so careful attention and an expert tailor should be employed.

Lapels

Lapels come in a variety of styles with a number of options. The lapels' width is perhaps subject to the most variance, with the extremely narrow lapels of the 1950s standing in stark contrast to the excessively wide lapels of the 1970s. As is the case with much of classic fashion, the most timeless lapels are of a moderate width. In addition to different widths, suit lapels come in two styles: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the join. Notched and peaked lapels are equally classic, though the latter are most commonly found on double-breasted jackets. A peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is an excellent way to raise its level of formality, but is almost impossible to find on anything but a custom made suit

Waist Buttons

A suit jacket has either one row of buttons or two, depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket has a single row of buttons, numbering anywhere from one to four, though two and three are the most common. The three-button jacket is the most traditional configuration, taking its cue from English riding jackets; properly worn, it gives the illusion of height. Traditionally, only the middle or second button is fastened when standing, though the top two buttons may be fastened to produce a slightly more formal appearance. Two-button suits are a slightly later innovation, and because they show more of the shirt and tie, can produce a slightly more slimming appearance. Only the top button of a two-button jacket is fastened; with the exception of a jacket with only one button, the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is never fastened.

Double-breasted jackets most commonly have either four or six buttons on each side - where there are six buttons, only the lower four are for buttoning, though due to the design of the suit, only two will actually be buttoned at any given time. There is also an extra hidden button on the reverse of the outside flap of a double-breasted suit, onto which the inside or "hidden" flap attaches. Contrary to the habits of certain celebrities, a double-breasted jacket is never left unbuttoned when standing, permitting it to flap around wildly; it is always securely buttoned upon standing and remains buttoned until one is again seated. Additionally, while the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is always left undone, both of the operable buttons on a double-breasted jacket are fastened. As with the gorge of the lapel, the height of the waist buttons can been altered slightly to accentuate or diminish height, but this must be done carefully.

Sleeve Buttons

There are numerous historical reasons for jacket sleeves bearing buttons, from encouraging the use of handkerchiefs to allowing a gentleman to wash his hands without removing his jacket, a traditionally grave social offense in mixed company. Whatever the reason for their arrival on jacket sleeves, they now form an important part of the detail work or trimming of the jacket. Most traditionally, jacket sleeves bear four buttons, though it is not uncommon to find three. Regardless of number, there should be at least as many of them as there are buttons on the waist, and they are always placed within a half-inch or so of the hem. On bespoke suits, and even some of the higher-quality made-to-measure jackets, the sleeve buttons are functional. When the buttons are functional, there is some temptation to leave one button undone in order to draw attention to the feature - and by extension, the quality of the suit - though this is a matter of personal taste.

Jacket Pockets

The most formal are jetted pockets, where the pocket is sewn into the lining of the jacket and only a narrow horizontal opening appears on the side of the jacket. These pockets, being nearly invisible, contribute to a very sleek, polished appearance, and are most frequently found on formal-wear. The next style, the flap pocket, is slightly less formal, though it is perfectly acceptable in all the circumstances where a gentleman is likely to be found in a suit. Flap pockets are made identically to jetted pockets, but include a flap sewn into the top of the pocket, which covers the pocket's opening. These are the most common pockets on suit jackets, and in the very best, are fabricated so that the wearer may tuck the flaps inside, mimicking the jetted pocket. There are also diagonally-cut flap pockets known as hacking pockets, though they are somewhat less common; the hacking pocket is derived from English riding gear, and is most prominent on bespoke suits from English tailors, particularly those traditionally associated with riding clothes. The least formal are patch pockets, which are exactly what the name implies: pockets created by applying a patch to the outside of the jacket. Patch pockets are the most casual option; they are frequently found on summer suits that would otherwise appear overly formal, as well as on sports jackets.

Ticket pocket

Some jackets, particularly bespoke and finer made-to-measure offerings, include a small ticket pocket above one of the side pockets, generally on the same side as the wearer's dominant hand. This pocket is rarely used in modern times, and serves more as an indication of the suit's quality.

Breast Pocket

Moving up the jacket is the breast pocket, which is always open, and into which only one item is ever placed: the handkerchief or pocket square. The reason for this is twofold: First, like the side pockets, any items placed in the breast pocket create lumpy projections which distort the sleek appearance of the suit, and second, the breast pocket and the inside left pocket share the same space in the jacket's lining, meaning that objects in the breast pocket tend to force items in the inside pocket into the wearer's ribs, which is quite uncomfortable.

Vents

Moving on from pockets we find the vents, flap-like slits in the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets. Jackets have three styles: center, side, or none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits; they provide a very sleek look to the back of the jacket, though they can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down. Center-vented jackets, very popular on American suits, have a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. Because of its placement, center-vented jackets have a habit of exposing the wearer's posterior, though most seem not to mind, as center vents remain the most popular style. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access. Side vents also facilitate sitting more easily, moving as needed to prevent the rumpling of the jacket back, which leads to creasing.

Now that we have an understanding of the parts of a jacket, its time that we learned about proper fit and proportion.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Choosing Mens Suit - A Focus On Color

2009-10-11T20:25:00.000-07:00

Most men choose a suits color based off of two factors. The salesman says the color looks good and the man buying the suit can not find anything wrong with it. The problem here is that most men do not know what colors compliment their complexion, and instead of choosing a color that enhances their looks they choose a color that simply fits in.

Have you ever wondered why you see so many men wearing navy blue suits? Its not that this color enhances so many men's natural style; its just men playing the game of safety in numbers. The purpose of this article is to open your eyes to the world of men's suit colors and encourage you to choose a fabric that compliments your individual style.

The Triad: Navy Blue, Black and Charcoal Gray

These three colors dominate the men's suit industry, and for good reason. Most men are complimented by one or more of these dark colors. Dark suits have the ability to seamlessly transition from business to pleasure, in addition to a slimming effect of the silhouette. Let us talk about each color quickly

Navy Blue

Navy blues strength lies in its sheer dominance. Most men own at least one, and if you have ever walked into a business meeting you can be sure more than half the men will be clad in one. But this is its chief weakness; how can you stand out when 90% of your body looks exactly the same as over 50% of the room. We tend to forget that our clothing sends off strong signals, and if you want to be anything but average you want to present yourself as such, not always try to blend in. In addition, those with a very light complexion need to pair navy blue with rich colored shirts; a white or ice blue shirt will drain the color right from their face. Finally, young men are advised to avoid this color as that it has a habit off accentuating youth.

Black

A more difficult color to wear, it is perceived by many as the choice for funerals and weddings. No argument there; however, it is so much more for the man with the right complexion. No other color has such a slimming effect, and depending on the dress shirt it can go from regular office wear to drinks with friends at the hippest nightclubs in New York. The key to wearing black is being a high contrast individual, a man with dark hair with light to medium colored skin. The effect is a properly framed face to where all the attention is drawn.

Charcoal Gray

Charcoal gray suits projects an image of authority, stability, and professionalism. It is an excellent choice for a first suit, especially for young men as that it does accentuate youth (unlike Navy Blue). Although clearly lighter than black or navy blue when placed side by side, it nonetheless is just as acceptable at all business functions and interview situations. Possibly the most versatile color, it looks good with almost any colored shirt imaginable.

Colors more men should consider.

Brown

Brown ranges from a light through a deep chocolate hue. Many men look their best in earth-tones, making the brown suit an important part of their wardrobe; it is also a popular color for causal options including tweed suits and sports jackets. One caveat: until the early 1980s, brown was not considered a color for business (we can thank Ronald Reagan for their return). While the times have changed there are still some members of the old guard who continue to hold to the old rule that brown does not belong in town. This should not dissuade the well-dressed gentleman from wearing brown with confidence, but it is important to be aware.

Tan

The navy suit for warm weather, tan is an excellent choice. Less flashy than white, it none the less commands attention and can set you apart from the crowd while keeping you cool. If you live in a cold weather city, a tan suit is ideal for spring and summer while in a warmer climate it is appropriate year round. The tan suit pairs well with white, light blue, or any pale pastel shirt. Best of all, this gives you the chance to really make your dark ties stand out.

Taupe

A color that falls between gray and brown, taupe is a great choice for the man who has a couple of the basic colored suits in his wardrobe and is looking for a color out of the ordinary that still maintains a professional appearance. Great for use year round, the taupe suit is a little less dressy than a charcoal suit but more likely to draw compliments because of it's ability to compliment a man's finer features.

Light Gray

A great spring and summer color that doesn't draw attention to the wearer but instead signals a suave persona confident in his own skin, light gray is an excellent choice for any complexion. Live in a warmer climate? Then light gray is appropriate year round. The light gray suit pairs well with white, light blue, and almost any pale colored shirt, although if you are light complected you may want to go with a bolder hue.

White

The Classic color of summer. You don't have to be Tom Wolfe to stay cool and look great. White compliments all but the lightest complexions, and even then the right shirt choice can remedy that situation. The key to wearing a white suit is confidence, especially in the United States where a suit in this color is hard to come by.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What To Wear With Men Blazer Jacket

2009-09-28T21:26:00.001-07:00

The beauty of the men's blazer is that it goes with almost anything. For the purpose of this discourse, by blazer we mean a classic single-breasted navy wool coat with brass buttons. Over gray flannel slacks, a white button-down oxford shirt and a striped tie, it makes a classic outfit that in the United States registers just shy of a suit on the formality scale. On the weekend, the same blazer over chinos and a polo shirt makes a very smart casual outfit. In this article we will discuss some basic means of wearing a men's blazer jacket for work and leisure.

If you work in a business casual office, the blazer gives you a simple solution to the tricky problem of dressing respectably without appearing aloof. In a workplace dominated by polo shirts and khakis, the man who has the class to throw a blazer on over the ensemble looks distinctive without standing out. A dress shirt with a button-down collar and gray flannels are also worthy accompaniments for a blazer; add a tie to take it up a notch. A point collar shirt formalizes the ensemble a tad more, and here one should stop. Contrast collars really belong under a suit, and even if the formality of French cuffs were not an issue, having cuff-links next to brass sleeve buttons creates a discordant clash. For footwear, bluchers, loafers, and monk-strap dress shoes are all good options.

The outfits described above are also smart choices for dinner in a nice restaurant or a morning religious service. In fact, the blazer will serve you well for most weekend activities, from taking in a play in most American cities to cheering on a girls' softball team. It looks aristocratic and dignified over an ecru turtleneck and your trusty gray flannels; for a laid-back look in the summer wear it with off-white pants and a bright polo. While it is perfectly acceptable to wear a blazer with jeans, and indeed the combination can look very stylish, one must take care that pants and coat are not too close in color. This goes for any jacket and pants combination: if it's not a suit, it shouldn't look like one from a distance.

When it comes to dress shirts, as said above a button-down oxford is the classic. Besides solids, a broad variety of stripes and checks, including many that would look garish with a suit, mix well with a blazer. The latter's dark, solid fabric looks good next to just about anything, and the shiny buttons amply counterweight bold patterns. For a more casual look go with a long-sleeve polo shirt or a turtleneck depending on the climate. The urbane silk tee-shirt and tight-fitting knit shirt tend to clash in their modernity with the blazer's long heritage, and work better with a suit jacket.

In cooler weather, you way want to don a sweater under your blazer jacket. If you're going without a tie, a cable-knit or argyle crew-neck will add some life to the outfit. The V-neck worn over a tie may also be patterned or textured, but can be solid as well.

A few words on neckwear and accessories: the tie you wear with a blazer should be in

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Invest In Custom Clothing - It Pays

2009-08-28T21:26:00.000-07:00

The Importance of Proper Fit

Dress clothes should always be comfortable. If they are not, it is the fault of the clothes' fit, and not of their nature. If the fit of a garment makes its wearer uncomfortable, he will look it; indeed a man looks his best when his clothes fit so well he barely notices them. The clothes send a message to the world about you, and if they fit is well, then it will always make a good impression.

Unfortunately most men today wear poorly fitting clothes; it's not their fault though, as that the clothing sold in stores is cut to fit as many people as possible. When buying a garment the retailer is often of little help, as that the department stores rarely have a salesman on staff that has a deep understanding of fit. Thus as in so many things it falls to each person to take responsibility for the fit of his own clothes and not to be swayed by the prolific selection of poor choices or the dubious influence of models or salesmen.

Proper Fit - Dress Shirt

A dress shirt's yoke or shoulders should cover the shoulders and nothing more; the shoulder point should not extend down his sleeves. As for the sleeves, you want a shirt with enough fabric so that when you rotate your arms and hold them out from your sides all of your arm remains covered; close fitting cuffs will help with this. You want anywhere from 3 to 6 inches of play in both your stomach and chest areas, and the shirt should be long enough so that when you bend over it doesn't un-tuck from the back or sides. Finally, the neck collar, when buttoned, should be tight enough to fit no more than two fingers in the space between collar and skin.

Proper Fit - Suit Jacket

A jacket must fit correctly in the chest and shoulders, as that these are very difficult to alter and in some situations downright impossible to adjust. When you stand with your jacket buttoned and arms hanging at your sides, the jacket's lapels should lie flat against the front panels, the buttons should hang close to or rest lightly on your stomach, and your biceps should just barely break the drape of sleeve from shoulder. If you tug on the top button, you should have enough room to easily slide your hand in between your lapels and chest, but not enough room so you can slide in your fist. As for your stomach, you should not be able to see it pull more than 3 inches from your belly. Of course, all of this depends on the fit you feel comfortable with. Sleeve length should end at about the wrist, although the exact point is also a matter of taste. As for the relationship between the shirt and the jacket: The shirt's cuffs should protrude approximately ½ inch from the jacket's sleeves when you stand with arms hanging. The shirt's collar should protrude about ½ -1 inch above the jacket collar, with both of them slightly touching.

Proper Fit - Trousers

Pants or trousers should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. Young people with flat stomachs may choose to wear them lower but they gain little in doing so. The man with a belly, on the other hand, looks much better with high-rise trousers draping from his middle than with his stomach spilling over a low-rise waistband; for this he should consider suspenders. Trouser bottoms should touch the upper part of the front of the shoes and should brush the top edge of the sole at the shoe back; a single break in the front is considered perfect by most, but shorter pant legs that just brush the tops of the shoes can look better on the shorter person.
Shorter men tend to do better without cuffs on their trousers, but should they want them they should be in proportion to their stature.

How to get the perfect fit?

Off-the-rack clothing is designed for the hypothetical model - for each brand, this person's dimensions change a bit, but unfortunately these measurements are never very close to yours. How can you get a proper fit?

Your alteration specialist - A good alteration specialist can do wonders for clothing that somewhat fits you. They can bring in waists, shorten sleeves, and open up room in the stomach after the holidays. The limit here is that they can often only alter an imperfect garment; in the end it is still imperfect.

Invest in Custom Clothing - Notice I use the term invest; this is because owning clothing that is made to compliment your features is a smart move for anyone. The beauty of custom clothing is that it is designed with your measurements; by its very nature it fits you better than anything else in your closet, and as a result will look better than anything you've ever worn.

It is a wonderful feeling to wear garments that fit you perfectly. One feels light and comfortable as the clothes seem to float around the body, neither heavy nor tight anywhere but rather resting evenly throughout. A person in clothing that fits feels confident and free to focus on the task at hand.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Power Outfit

2009-02-16T18:41:00.000-08:00

Make sure your clothes are statement makers, but that the statement never speaks louder than you do. Just because you can afford designer logos doesn’t mean they’re right for you. Are they compatible with your professional message? And just because you can buy the very best suits doesn’t absolve you from needing the services of the very best tailor.

CLOTHES NO LONGER TALK, THEY COMMAND
A woman in a position of authority must project an equal amount of distinction in her dress up. The cornerstone of the power wardrobe is still the suit, but at this stage of the game, it packs an extra punch.

Now it’s time to fine-tune your wardrobe with clothes of exceptional quality and unmistakable style. The goal: A closet full of statement making clothes that communicate success. To cultivate a collection that convey personal and professional style; and to dress, when the situation demands, casually but with authority.

Bespoke Single-Breasted
The most formal of suits, the single-breasted version has sharp lines, and notched lapel give a disciplined buttoned-up feel that adds up to create an impression of powerful authority. Fabric is a key; at this stage, a suit is only as good as its fabric. Look for light, almost silky wool that has a graceful drape and doesn’t wrinkle easily.

A tailor made straight skirt to the knee, slightly nipped-in waist, an impeccable fit. For ultimate conviction, pair with a crisp white shirt. Make sure the collar lies flat on the suit lapels. Keep buttoned up except for either top or bottom button.

Coat dress
There is no mistaking the seriousness of the business when the fabric is worked in a menswear pattern: Pinstripes, Chalk Stripes, Glen Plaids, Mini Hounds tooth are all boardroom contenders.

For a more relaxed alternative consider pairing with a black turtleneck, knee-high boots and opaque tights in fall or winter. If belted, consider replacing the companion belt with one of higher caliber.

Long Jacket
The self-assured silhouette only works when the jacket is fitted anything loose will look frumpy ; and it must be worn only with its matching companion piece, whether it’s a skirt, dress, or pants.

A single-breasted jacket, pocket flaps that lie flat, with a shirt in a similar hue, a scoop-neck cashmere sweater, or nothing but a set of pearls, all combines together an elegant authority.

Color is POWERFUL.
RED = Confidence, leadership, independence. Useful for presentations; shows security in one’s role. Attracts attention

Color is quick means of communicating authority and style. A power color is an added asset: It commands attention, conveys control, and, when properly chosen, sends a consistent message about your workplace identity.

ALL BLACK = Serious sophisticated, determined powerful and practical in urban environments.

Own a color Pick a shade you like and make it your own. Wear it consistently. Choose one or two other colors that complement your personal uniform. A monochromatic look a suit and shirt of matching colors has high impact and is also elongating.

Pattern
Patterns pilfered from menswear can pack masculine punch, while adding texture and diversity to your wardrobe. Balancing bold pattern with a simple tailored silhouette and feminine detail is a key.

Quantity Counts: Composed of highly designed, coordinated pieces, a power suit makes a statement. And a statement is remembered. Therefore owning just one or two is not sufficient. At this stage of the game, you need, and can afford more.

Tailor: A tailor you trust implicitly is crucial. Valuable traits to look for: Utter expertise in what is possible and what is not. Invisible hand work, Thoroughness - someone who when hemming pants, measures both the front and the back; when altering a skirt, measures from the floor up; someone who teaches you. Mouth is the best reference.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Perfect Interview Wardrobe

2009-01-28T21:34:00.000-08:00

Interview Wardrobe

The clothes you choose to wear to your interview will create the first-and most important-impression upon those who matter, up until your first day on the job. At that point, you can start to relax into the club’s attire. But at this point, dressing to impress is mandatory, and the clothes you choose are critical. This section discusses the interview wardrobe’s key pieces, and the messages they send.
“At one time, the most qualified person got the job. Today, in a situation where three people with equal qualification are interviewed for a job, the one with the best communication skills gets it.”

WHAT DO YOUR CLOTHES SAY TO THE INTERVIEWER?

BLOUSE
Uptight or Elegant?
PEARLS Pretentious or Pulled together?

SUIT JACKET

Suit Jacket Long ago pilfered from menswear , the jacket acts a strong, no-nonsense centerpiece to any business look. It gives the body shape, suggests stature, and imparts the wearer with confidence. Because its overall intent is to convey power, a jacket’s workmanship, quality, and tailoring are critical.

FABRIC Should drape smoothly, not appear stiff, shiny, or flimsy.
COLOR Neural-black, gray, navy’ or beige.
SHAPE Slightly nipped in at waist.
POCKETS Optional pockets lie flat and are lined. Do not remove string to open.
LENGTH Hem extends to the bottom of the hips.
SLEEVES Sleeves land at the base of the thumb.
COLLAR Collar lies smooth and flat against the neck.
SHOULDERS Shoulders are structured but not overpadded.
LAPELS Medium to small lapels<3”1/4 from seam to point is ideal> lie flat without buckling.
FIT Armholes should fit well-not too baddy, no too tight; this part of the jacket can’t be tailored.
STYLE Single-breasted.
BUTTONS Buttons are the same color or darker than the suit and never too large, flashy, or covered in fabric.

Suit Skirt

WHAT IT SAYS
Formal, urban, conservative.
FABRIC Drapes smoothly.
NO BELT LOOPS
SHAPE Simple-a-lime or straight, not too tight and never frilly.
DETAILS For maximun versatility, the waist should not require a belt.
FIT Skirt should not be too tight or too short-do a sitting text in tit before purchasing. Check the rearview mirror. What look fabulous from the front can cling or slouch from other angles.
QUALITY Make sure seams are even and not pulled. Check that lining is firmly intact.
LENGTH To the knee. It’s the length that says, “I’m professional” and looks best on most legs. Shorter could be considered too fashiony; longer, more traditional.

Suit Pants
WHAT IT SAYS
Confident, contemporary, practical.
FIT Pants should drape smoothly over the body, with no tight areas that droop. Check that the pocket lining is smooth and not bulky.
OUALITY Check that fabric hangs evenly and seams are not mismatched or pulled.
THE BOTTOM LINE The seat of the pants should be neither overly baggy nor clingy. To ensure proper fit, check your rearview mirror and sit down while wearing the pants.
ZIP CODE Side, front, or rear closure are acceptable.
BANISH BELT LOOPS
For your first suit, a clean waistline is the most flexible. Belt loops always require a belt and that your top is tucked in.
FLAT FRONT VS. PLEATS
Both are professional; the flat front is more slimming and sophisticated.
LENGTH
The pant leg should break at the instep. When having your pants hemmed, bring the shoe you will most often wear with them.
CUFFED LEG VS. CLEAN
Both are acceptable; a clean leg is more versatile.

Tops are key wardrobe enhancers: Change your top and essentially you’ve changed your look. Choose shirts and that are compatible with your suits. Make sure each top fits comfortably under your suit jacket-and looks suitably professional should you take your jacket off.
BLOUSE
A soft, somewhat loose feminine top. Conservative, confident, ladylike. FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, cream, black, or a color to match your suit.
SHIRT
Button-front, cuffed-and-collared top inspired by menswear. Efficient, classic; respects authority. Choose a classic, men’s style dress collar; a button-down can be limiting. FIRST PURCHASE; Solid, white cotton.
T-SHIRT
Trim, collarless, cotton or jersey top. Easygoing but organized. Ready to roll up your sleeves Choose substantial, opaque cotton or cotton blend with stretch-anything flimsy will lose its shape. Make sure neck is not saggy or baggy. Keep it plain . Try a shot of color.

FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, black, or to match the color of your suit.
1 JACKET+4 TOPS = 3 DRESS CODES
Shoes

Never underestimate the power of shoes. A good pair can make a ho-hum dress look like a million bucks. The wrong ones can send a great suit straight into the gutter. Shoes also tend to make at-a-glance statements about your workplace identity, and your message better be clear-I’m capable, confident, and yes, great with derails.

Portfolio
A portfolio is a sleek and efficient alternative to the handbag. It can help keep resumes presentable, hold a notepad, and conceal any preinterview cheat sheets you want to study en route to your meeting.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Right Suit For Your Body

2009-01-04T21:29:00.001-08:00

Which Suit Is Right For You?

Choosing the right suit presents a closet-full of challenges and opportunities to those faced with building a wardrobe. From suit silhouettes, pricing and fashionable obsolescence to pant fronts, button counts and lapel widths, there's much to consider.

"The biggest problem in teaching men how to dress is that there's no one for them to look at," says Alan Flusser, author of Dressing the Man (Harper Collins, 2002), who believes that one of the primary reasons business casual failed is that the apparel industry never showed men how to look good in it. "Men in general definitely need help with suits. But once it's explained why they should buy a particular garment, they're pretty quick studies."

Suits can be broken down into three basic styles:
European (i.e., Italian), British and American. The European suit typically has padded shoulders, no vents, a full-chested and V-shaped jacket and "slash"--i.e., flapless--pockets. Across the English Channel, the classic British suit sports a military demeanor with padded shoulders, two vents, pinched waist, flap pockets and boldly striped or plaid patterns. On our side of the pond, the epitome of traditional American styling is the "sack suit" favored by Ivy Leaguers back in the 1920s, with natural shoulders, one vent in the back, straight-hanging lines and flap pockets. Many designers cross cultural lines, such as Bronx native Ralph Lauren, who has a distinct Anglo-Saxon sensibility, and the Italianesque ensembles of American Joseph Abboud.

For tailoring options, the bespoke suit is the finest. Best exemplified by the enduring shops of London's Savile Row, such as Anderson & Sheppard and H. Huntsman, bespoke suits are created by exacting teams of highly skilled tailors and artisans to fit your every inch. They may take up to five fittings and six weeks of work to complete, and starting prices run upwards of $3,000. Meanwhile, Hong Kong is loaded with bespoke tailors who, though not the bargain they used to be, can still get you fitted nicely--and for a lot less than three grand.

Off-the-rack suits are the least costly and the most convenient option, provided you're happy with the fabric and fit. But these days many suit makers also offer a "made-to-measure" alternative that allows customers to choose the fabric, styling options and details before allowing a tailor to take measurements and forward the order to the factory. A semi-finished suit is then returned to the store for fitting and finishing. Brioni, Kiton, Hickey-Freeman and others offer made-to-measure lines, as do specialty men's stores such as Louis Boston. Expect prices to run 15%-25% above off-the-rack.

Whatever the tailoring option, men's suits are either "full canvas"--i.e., handmade with a free-floating piece of material between the jacket's exterior fabric and interior lining--"fused" together with glue, or some combination of the two. The benefits of full-canvas construction include attention to detail, durability and a freer and more natural appearance. Though fused suits tend to be stiffer and their glue breaks down over time, they are also vastly more affordable, with prices ranging from $200 to $1,000.

Suit fabrics come in a wide array of colors, patterns and qualities: Hickey-Freeman has some 700 swatches available for special order, while H. Huntsman's wools range from Super 90s to Super 200s--a grading designation that refers to the number of centimeters a single piece of yarn can be stretched. The longer the stretch, the higher the quality, the more luxurious the feel and the lighter the weight of the yarn.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

New Laws Of Fashion Part 1

2008-09-23T22:18:00.001-07:00

With more quality available to the American man than ever before, there are also more pitfalls. To help you navigate our expanding sartorial world, here are Esquire’s fifty new laws of fashion. Commit them to memory. Break them if you like. (We’ll tell you how.) Then go undaunted.

1. YOU WEAR THE CLOTHES, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND.

2. INVESTING IN QUALITY OFTEN MEANS INVESTING IN THE THINGS YOU CAN’T SEE. Like the movement inside a mechanical watch, the full hand-canvasing in a jacket or single breasted suits, or the hand-stitched uppers of your shoes.

3. BLUE JEANS ARE GOOD; DARK-BLUE JEANS ARE BETTER. Leave the boot cuts to cowgirls and black denim to ex-cons.

4. CELEBRITIES LOOK GOOD IN CLOTHES FOR TWO REASONS: a) They’re famous. b) They have someone whose full-time job is to dress them. Don’t get discouraged. Get famous.

5. YOU SHOULD DRESS FOR AIR TRAVEL AS IF IT WERE STILL A PRIVILEGE. Start with a collared shirt and a tailored jacket. And if you can’t bear wearing proper shoes, low-key leather sneakers will do. Ditch the sweatpants, though. You’re not at the gym. How to break it: Flying private gives you sartorial carte blanche.

6. A WELL MADE AND PROPERLY KEPT SHOE WILL LAST YOU THREE DECADES. When shopping for your feet, remember to invest in leather soles and uppers and Goodyear-worthy welts. Remember, too, that all-leather shoes are easier to rebuild. How to break it: If it’s obvious that your loafers are from the seventies, retire them.

7. WOODEN SHOE TREES ARE A GOOD IDEA. But you need only one pair. Put them in the shoes you’ve been wearing all day. The shoe, warmed and wet from your body heat and perspiration, will contract as it cools over the shape of the tree and return to its original form. Within an hour or two, the tree has done its job. Leather Tramezza shoes (made to measure, starting at $810) by Salvatore Ferragamo.

8. THERE ARE TWO WAYS YOU SHOULD STORE YOUR TIE: 1) Lay it flat in a drawer. 2) Roll it up like a Swiss roll by folding it once and then rolling it from the narrow end. Both methods allow the tie to settle and regain its shape overnight.

9. BROADEN YOUR COLOR WHEEL. Colors that real men actually look good in, though they don’t realize it (one item of clothing at a time, please): pink, turquoise, and coral.

10. IT’S BETTER TO BE OVERDRESSED THAN UNDERDRESSED. Being thought eccentric for wearing a tux to a swim meet is preferable to wearing a T-shirt and jeans to a wedding.

12. IN YOUR MEDICINE CABINET: one razor, one bar of shaving soap, a shaving brush, a comb, deodorant, nail clippers, hair gel, toothpaste, and a toothbrush. Done.

13. BUY THE SUIT THAT FITS, NOT THE ONE YOU WISH YOU COULD FIT INTO. A suit that’s too tight will make you look fat. And while an oversized suit may seem more comfortable, in reality you’ll just look like a ten-year-old playing dress-up. In between the two is the suit that fits.

14. WOMEN ARE SEXY WHEN WEARING ONE ITEM OF MEN’S CLOTHING. How to break it: Or nothing at all.

15. WATERPROOF AND WATER-RESISTANT: There’s a big difference.

16. WET SHOES SHOULD BE DRIED IN A WARM PLACE NEAR AN OVEN (BUT NEVER IN ONE). But be careful: Rapid drying can irreversibly crack the leather.

17. "A WELL-TIED TIE IS THE FIRST SERIOUS STEP IN LIFE." —OSCAR WILDE

18. BE SUSPICIOUS OF THE GUY IN THE STATE U. SWEATSHIRT. Varsity sweatshirts are usually worn by people on whom the educational establishment in question had no lasting or useful impact at all or by people who paid for their kids to go there and would dearly like to advertise the fact. How to break it: Let go of suspicion if you live within twenty miles of a Big Ten school.

19. YOUR EYEGLASSES SHOULD CONTRAST, NOT MIMIC, THE SHAPE OF YOUR FACE. Here’s a quick guide, courtesy of renowned eyeglass designer Richard Morgenthal.

Your shape: Heart
Your specs: A heart-shaped face already has a lot of definition. Since your head is top-heavy, go for a geometric frame that gives some width to the lower half of your face.

Your shape: Square
Your specs: Since a square face already has angles, go for a round or oval frame that shapes your cheekbones. A decorative frame with width will often do the trick.

Your shape: Round
Your specs: Avoid dark frames; they only make your face appear heavy. A round face needs direction, so opt for angular and narrow frames—never a square or a circle.

Your shape: Oval
Your specs: A modern rectangle is best for an oval face. Because your face is longer than it is wide, you’ll need frames that provide width. If your face is wider than it is long, go the opposite way.

20. IN THE NEW JEANS-AND-A-SUIT-JACKET ENVIRONMENT, A POCKET SQUARE CAN STAND IN FOR A TIE. Here’s how.

Astaire: To be done only with a silk handkerchief. Begin by spreading the material across a flat surface and pinching at the center, allowing the fabric to pillow around the pinch. Only an elegant pattern will do.

Churchill: Constructed in the same fashion as the Astaire pocket square but with the additional step of folding up the corners. This style is slightly more ragged in a very purposeful way. Must still be done with silk.

JFK: The structured nature of this style can be done with almost any material: silk, linen, or cotton. Very measured and exact, it calls for a quiet pattern on the hankie and is usually worn by men you’d trust to invest your money.

Bond, James: Straight out of the 1960s comes this straight-across approach. Donned by spies, news anchors, and heads of state, this style is simple and clean. It should be done with a white linen or cotton handkerchief.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How You Dress Is What You Are

2008-04-17T23:03:00.001-07:00

Clothes Confidence

-When Dressing is serious business

THE POWER LOOK
Now that you understand how quality connotes power, how do you actually dress to display it? One basic rule is that the more formally you are dressed, the more powerful you appear. For instance, try blue pinstripe suit, with a white French cuff shirt and a woven silk tie. The shoes would be black cordovan cap-toes, and the belt is black alligator. Finally, just to add a splash of dash, you wear a white pocket square. The overall effect it a man in classic corporate armor who appears invulnerable.

THE POWER PALETTE
Color is another way of denoting power. In suits, dark and formidable is what you are after, so blue, gray, and black remain at the top of the power palette. White is still the most formal dress shirt, but bold patterns and color can often signal that you have clout. Multicolored stripes and big checks are often sign of status, as are bright pastels such as pink, orange, and green. But perhaps no color dominates the power palette these days quite like purple. As regal as it was a thousand years ago, purple has emerged in the last few years as the color to be reckoned with in a shirt and tie.

Dressing for your Goals

HOW TO LOOK MORE

Professional. By now, you should know the basic tenets of looking more professional, but just to be clear, looking more professional means meeting the sartorial standards of your office or industry. No matter the standard, looking more professional most likely means going one step above where you are now: From business casual to appropriate, and from appropriate to corporate.

Trustworthy. Take a page out of the presidential candidates on this one. When they want to look like solid citizens to rest of us solid citizens they go with a blue suit and a white shirt and a red tie. Is it any wonder that we recommended wearing that on your first job interview?

Authoritative. If you want to look like one of the “suits” you have to wear one. Take a look at your superiors: What do they wear? Pinstripes? Double-breasted suits? French cuff shirts? Remember, management always looks a little stiff, a little too proper, so don’t overdo it.

Creative. In creative fields such as publishing, advertising, media dress codes are notoriously relaxed (unless your job requires that you be on camera a lot). So how do you look creative when you are supposed to be creative? Well, black usually does the trick. A black suit, a black sweater with a white T-shirt underneath, black shoes. It shows everyone that you can look professional and still maintain your personality.

Independent. Every man wants to be his own man, and looking independent is a part of that. The key is finding a way to do it without looking unprofessional. Wearing jeans to the office would not be a good approach. But always wearing a cowboy belt might be.
Yes, it’s a bit eccentric but if you can stand a little criticism, soon enough it will become your trademark. Here’s a range of similar ways to express independence Bow Ties, Checked shirts, Turtle necks, monogrammed shirts, cowboy boots, a leather jacket .The point is you can exert your independence in many ways by being dandyish or rugged, bohemian or preppy just as long as you look professional first.

Friendly. If your image is a bit aloof, you need to warm it up. No one wants to work with someone who seems distant (what is he hiding?) or superior to them especially if you’re not. So what will make you look more friendly? You have to know your audience. If you’re a white collar guy trying to make a good impression on a blue collar crowd then a button-down oxford shirt and tie, with the jacket off and the sleeves rolled up will make you seem to be a man of the people if you appear too threatening to women, a bow tie actually declaws most men possibly because there’s almost nothing that’s as asexual as a bow tie. Can you loosen up in your office? Try dressing business appropriate. Wear a sport jacket with a shirt and no tie. You will look approachable. Bring color also work wonders. A bright tie will seem cheerful, whereas something dark can often seem funereal. Oh, and would it kill you to smile every once in a white?

Organized. If your appearance is neat and tidy and that includes your desk and/or office people will assume that you are organized. Even if it means sweeping all that junk into your desk, do it. No one has to know what you look like on the inside. As for clothing,
It wouldn’t hurt to be a little fastidious. Keep your pants creased, your shoes polished, and your shirts pressed. Your ties should always be knotted to the top. And make sure your watch is set five minutes ahead.

Affluent. Sad, but true, some people do judge a look by its cover. If you want to invest in two areas that can make you seem like you’re packing a big portfolio, splurge on a good pair of shoes and a nice watch. The shoes you can’t really skimp on you don’t need to spend $1,000 but $200 is about right but a watch doesn’t need to cost more than $100 to look expensive. These days, Timex, Swatch, Fossil, and other manufacturers put enough bells and whistles on their timepieces that you can fool almost anyone.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Buy Quality Products

2008-02-18T21:39:00.001-08:00

Quality & Quantity:

There are clearly two ways to spend your money: Quantity and Quality.

As you seek a better position career, both are important. Quantity will give you more choices. If for instance, you now have seven suits instead of four, you have more options, which will only make life easier when getting dressed or packing for travel. Quantity allows you to be more versatile in different situations: Whereas you one had only a blue blazer that was too heavy to wear in, say, summer, you will now have two blazers, one for warm weather and one for cold.

Quality, on the hand, has more subtle value. Quality clothing may cost more, but it is also a kind of shorthand for status. Better clothes often send a faster signal to people that you know how to invest in yourself. The right watch, for instance, is a status symbol to many people, and wearing one that looks expensive tells people that you know more than what time it is.
And keep in mind, it only needs to look expensive. A Timex, in other words, may go just as far as a Rolex.

Another advantage of clothing that is well made is that it tends to last longer. The fabrics are more durable, the workmanship is finer, and so repairs are often easier. Think of it this way: Would you rather own an expensive car that was relatively easy to service or one that was medium-priced but a headache to fix?

THE SIGNS OF QUALITY
If the price tag is not a sign of quality and let’s be clear, it isn’t then what is? Quality comes in many forms, and understanding what to look for will help you become a smarter shopper and dresser.

QUALITY CUT
There is no single perfect cut of a suit.
Single-breasted is not better than double. Having two buttons on your jacket is not any less valuable than three.
Rather, the beauty of clothes lies in the eyes of the ultimate beholder: You.
Understanding the most flattering cut of clothing for your body type is critical to seeking out quality.

Clothing can often make up for what nature has not given us. If you don’t have broad shoulders, some padding in your suit jacket may give you a little more heft. If you are shorter than you would like, a lean-cut, vertically striped suit with three buttons will give you the appearance of length.
A little heavy in the middle? Try darker suits without a vent in the rear. The point is, what you are and what you look like.

The next step is understanding what designers and labels are most ideal for you. Some jackets are boxier than others heavier men would want to avoid these. Some are cut narrow in the shoulders, and men with broad chests would be wise to steer clear. Even if you have always coveted owning a certain name-brand designer’s clothes, they may not be well suited for your shape and size, and it would be wiser to spend your money on something that fits better. After all, you don’t wear the label on the outside.

Once you have identified brands that are tailored for your body that is your quality cut. Again, it may not be right for your best friend, but a quality cut only has to suit you.

QUALITY FABRIC

All fabric are not created equal. If they were. You could wear a pair of silk pants to play touch football in and good luck with your friends on that one and a denim tie to the office. But how a fabric looks is often not as important as how it feels. A fabric’s feel or finish will affect not only how good you look in an article of clothing, but also how it feels on. As a rule, heavier fabrics are usually more durable while the quality fabrics feel better and are more fragile.

Suit and jackets. There first suit you wore on an interview was a worsted wool. Nothing wrong with it, of course (in fact it holds a crease quite well), but it’s just not as luxurious feeling or looking as a Super 100 wool (which refers to the fineness of the fiber themselves). Nor does it drape as well or stay unwrinkled quite like a wool crepe

Shirt. The first shirts you owned were broadcloth or oxford cloth, two cottons that feel very nice, but they aren’t nearly as soft as Egyptian cotton or Sea Island cotton, which have a higher thread count per square inch. In general, if you want to spend money on better fabrics, you should think about which fabrics will be close to the body: Shirts, pants, etc.

After all, only going to feel good against your shirt.

Ties. As with wools and cottons, some silks are smoother than others. Such softer silks are said to have a finer “hand,” a fact you can test with either your left or right. A necktie made of a finer silks will often look better tied

Sweaters. As far as sweaters are concerned, Shetland is basic, durable wool, as is lamb’s wool. But neither feels as fine to the hand as merino, cashmere, or silk (all of which are often combined in sweaters). But again, quality does matter even in there categories (all fabrics are not created equal, remember?). It would be wiser to buy an expensive merino V-neck than a more expensive cashmere sweater that was thin and cheap looking. After all, why buy a cashmere sweater that pills and looks raged when you can have a smart-looking merino version for less money that will last longer?

Shoes. Nothing take a beating like your shoes, so investing in quality materials is a risky concept. A supple leather, such as cordovan, will scratch more easily than one that is more rugged. A good suede can be ruined by the rain. And snow. And dirt. Still, because you are investing in quantity and quality, you have more shoes in you closet, so you can be judicious about when you wear the nicer ones.

QUALITY WORKMANSHIP

A man who kicks the tires of a car he’s thinking of buying clearly knows nothing about quality it’s just not where you look. The same is true for clothing about quality that you can know if you’re truly getting your money’s worth. Quality workmanship often does not show. It is often hidden in subtle details such as stitching, lining, and construction. Handcrafter made than those processed on a machine. The stitching and construction are simply more reliable than on something that is mass- produced.
Suits and Jackets. There are many distinguishing signs of quality workmanship to look for in a suit or sport jacket. Here are a few that should make a difference: A jacket internal construction will drape better across the body and will retain its shape longer. You can usually feel the support inside the shoulders and across the back of the jacket, and it might also feel slightly heavier than an un constructed jacket, but not enough to weight you down. A lining in the pockets will protect them better, but the truth is, it’s best never to open your jacket pockets; stuffing them with keys, change, and other effluvia will only cause the jacket to bulge and will distort its shape.
Buttons are another sign of quality. Good jacket buttons are made out of very hard plastic and sometimes even horn. On truly superior jackets, the buttons on a sleeve will actually work, and the buttonhole on a lapel will actually be a hole. Whit trousers, well-made pants will several buttons in the inside of the waistband for suspenders.

Shirt. Stitching is what you’re looking for here. A well-made shirt will have fine stitching down the placket , and across the yoke and shoulders. Look for about 14 stitches per inch on the placket. There will also be attention paid to the collar, perhaps the most critical part of shirt. A well-constructed collar will retain its shape longer. And once again, buttons are the sign of workmanship. Mother-of-pearl buttons are among the best you can get, but a good, hard plastic that won’t crack or chip is the least you should expect.

Ties. A well-made tie will have a lining (usually linen or wool) that extends to the tip of both ends. This will help it retain its shape after many wearing. A good tie should also have hand stitching along the back. Finally, look for a loop of fabric on the wide end to tuck the narrow end into when it’s tied. This will preserve the tie better and keep you from tucking it into the label.

Shoes. Since shoes take the most punishment, great care must be paid to purchasing pairs that won’t fall down on the job. Look for leather with a smooth finish; it will better resist cracking. The soles should be leather and be lightly tanned and flexible. A well-made shoe should not have upper parts that are glued; look for stitching or, if you don’t have an eye for this, ask the salesman.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

About Wool Used For Mens Business Suits

2008-02-12T01:40:00.000-08:00

Mens Suit and Womens Suit FABRIC IDENTIFICATION

Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.

To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric. Blends consist of two or more fibers and, ideally, are supposed to take on the characteristics of each fiber in the blend. The burning test can be used but the fabric content will be an assumption.

WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.

Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.

Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.

Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.

Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.

Man Made Fibers

Acetate is made from cellulose (wood fibers), technically cellulose acetate. Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.

Acrylic technically acrylonitrile is made from natural gas and petroleum. Acrylics burn readily due to the fiber content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match or cigarette dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh.

Nylon is a polyamide made from petroleum. Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains on the melted fiber. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic.

Polyester is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. Polyester melts and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard.

Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves.

WOOL USED FOR SUITS FOR MEN AND WOMEN

WOOL is the fiber derived from the fur of animals of the Caprinae family, principally sheep, but the hair of certain species of other mammals such as goats, llamas and rabbits may also be called wool. This article deals explicitly with the wool produced from domestic sheep.

WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.

WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.

Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.

WOOL SUIT FABRICS AND THE SUPER WOOL NUMBERS

Following is an excerpt from the "THE WOOL PRODUCTS LABELING ACT OF 1939" of the Federal Trade Commission of the United States of America.

The super numbers are exactly as follows -

(A) Super 80s or 80s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 19.75 microns or finer;
(B) Super 90s or 90s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 19.25 microns or finer;
(C) Super 100s or 100s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 18.75 microns or finer;
(D) Super 110s or 110s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 18.25 microns or finer;
(E) Super 120s or 120s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 17.75 microns or finer;
(F) Super 130s or 130s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 17.25 microns or finer;
(G) Super 140s or 140s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 16.75 microns or finer;
(H) Super 150s or 150s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 16.25 microns or finer;
(I) Super 160s or 160s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 15.75 microns or finer;
(J) Super 170s or 170s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 15.25 microns or finer;
(K) Super 180s or 180s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 14.75 microns or finer;
(L) Super 190s or 190s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 14.25 microns or finer;
(M) Super 200s or 200s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 13.75 microns or finer;
(N) Super 210s or 210s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 13.25 microns or finer;

(O) Super 220s or 220s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 12.75 microns or finer;
(P) Super 230s or 230s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 12.25 microns or finer;
(Q) Super 240s or 240s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 11.75 microns or finer; and
(R) Super 250s or 250s, is when the diameter of the wool fibers used in weaving of this cloth average 11.25 microns or finer.

The average fiber diameter may be subject to a coefficient of variation around the mean that shall not exceed 24 percent.

CARING FOR YOUR WOOL SUITS

Allow 24 hours before wearing a wool garment again. The natural resiliency of wool fabric will allow wrinkles to fall out and the original shape to bounce back.

Soil and dust can be removed from wool fabric by brushing lengthwise with a garment brush. Wool garments with heavily napped surfaces should be brushed regularly. Finer wool fabric should be restored using a damp cloth instead of a brush.

If a wool garment gets damp, hang it out of direct sunlight. Be sure to brush it after it is dry.

If a label says "Dry Clean Only" take the garment to a professional dry cleaner for the best results. You may choose to hand wash the garment instead. However, the garment probably hasnt been treated for washability. Washing may result in some shrinkage, loss of color, and/or the fabric may lose some of its softness.

Removing Stains from Wool Fabric

Try to treat stains immediately to prevent them from setting into the fabric.

With a clean white cloth, blot to remove as much of the stain as possible. Do NOT rub.

Take garments with stubborn stains to the dry cleaner as soon as possible. This includes stains caused by paint, dyes, nail polish, etc.

Have a bottle of stain or spot removal solution on hand for oil based stains such as oil, make-up, or chocolate. Make sure that the product you use is safe for wool fabric. Test the solution on an inconspicuous area before using on the stain.

Be sure to remove stains before pressing. Heat can cause stains to set in wool fabric.

Hand Washing Wool Fabric

Clean wool fabric using a mild detergent in lukewarm water. Never use hot water! Do NOT use bleach. bleach dissolves wool fabric.

Completely cover the garment in water and soak for 3 to 5 minutes. Gently squeeze to allow water to penetrate the fabric. Do NOT wring the garment.

Rinse thoroughly with cool water to remove all traces of soap.

Squeeze gently to remove excess water. Do NOT wring the garment.

To dry, lay the garment on a flat surface, reshaping if necessary and allow to dry away from direct sunlight and heat. Do NOT hang to dry. This will cause the wool fabric to stretch from the weight of the water that has soaked into the fibers.

Never put wool clothing in the dryer! The combination of heat, friction and pressure will cause shrinkage.

Ironing Wool Fabric

Set iron for WOOL setting.

Add water to the iron. Always use steam heat when pressing. Never iron wool fabric dry.

Squeeze gently to remove excess water. Do NOT wring the garment.

Press garment on the inside of the garment to avoid surface shine.

Use a pressing cloth when top pressing. A clean white handkerchief or cotton cloth may also be used.

When pressing napped fabrics, place a piece of the same fabric or a thick terry cloth towel on the ironing board to prevent crushing.

If napped wool fabric is slightly scorched when pressing, rub lightly with an emery board. A diluted solution of hydrogen peroxide may be used for a more severe scorch. Be sure to test on a hidden area first.

Shine created by pressing may be reduced by sponging white vinegar on surface of wool garment. Rinse thoroughly.

Some recommended notions for someone with a lot of wool to press are a steam iron, a tailors ham for pressing curved areas such as collars and lapels, a seam roll for pressing seams open without making a visible seam edge, a point presser for hard-to-reach places, and a press cloth.

Wool Fabric, Clothing, and Blanket Storage

To prevent the invasion of the clothes moth, brush wool with a fabric brush before storing.

Clean the garment or blanket. Food stains and body oils attract moths. Dry cleaning or laundering kills moth eggs and larvae.

Store cleaned wool fabric in airtight bags or containers with tight-fitting lids. When folding, add white tissue paper between folds to prevent wrinkling.

Add mothballs to the container. Do NOT put them directly on the fabric. Hang them in small loosely woven cloth bags near the fabric. Clothing will need to be aired out after removing from storage to remove the mothball odor.

STAIN REMOVAL OPTIONS FOR WOOL FABRICS

Please note :Be sure to test the fabric for colorfastness. Do not use bleach if your fabric is colorfast.

Milk or Egg Products
Rinse well in cool water. Presoak with detergent and powdered bleach in cool or warm water. Follow Package directions for dissolving bleach. Launder in cold water with detergent and liquid bleach.

Blood
Rinse in cool water and pre-treat with liquid bleach or bleach. Rinse and repeat if necessary. Launder in cool water with bleach.

Candle Wax
Harden the wax by either applying ice or placing the garment in the freezer. Scrape off as much of the frozen wax as possible, then launder with bleach and detergent in the hottest water recommended for the fabric. Repeat the laundering procedure until all the color from the wax is gone. Do not dry the garment until the wax color is completely removed.

Baby Formula
Soak in cool water. Pretreat with Stain Out or bar soap and rub gently. Wash with detergent and bleach, or bleach.

Ink- Ballpoint
Apply liquid bleach or rubbing alcohol. Rub on detergent and launder with liquid bleach and detergent in hottest water recommended for fabric. Repeat if necessary.

Ink- Felt Pen
May be impossible to remove. Apply liquid bleach and rub on detergent. Rinse. Repeat as necessary. Launder with liquid bleach and detergent in hottest water recommended for fabric.

Perspiration, Deodorants
Launder with liquid bleach and detergent in hottest water recommended for fabric. If stain has caused color change, try to restore by using ammonia on fresh stains, vinegar on old stains. Do not use ammonia or vinegar with liquid bleach.

Yellowing Dinginess
Launder garment in the hottest water recommended for the fabric with bleach and detergent. If the garment is not colorfast then regular bleach is fine.

Pollen
Vacuum, do not brush, as much of the pollen from the garment as possible. Pretreat the area with bleach. Launder normally with bleach and detergent.

Grass
Apply Stain Out and rub gently into stain; let sit 5 minutes. Then wash with detergent and bleach or bleach in the hottest water safe for fabric.

Makeup
Apply prewash stain remover such as Stain Out and gently rub into the stain; let sit for 5 minutes. Then wash with detergent and bleach or bleach in the hottest water the fabric will tolerate.

Scorching
If the damage is severe it may be permanent. Mild scorching can be treated to improve the color by brushing the scorched area and pre-treating it with detergent or bleach. Then launder normally in detergent and bleach.

Coffee, Tea, Wine, Soft Drinks
Pretreat with liquid bleach. Launder right away with detergent and liquid bleach in hottest water recommended for fabric.

Mildew
Mildew can damage the cellulosic structure of fibers as well as many manmade fibers. If the fabric shows no sign of permanent damage treat the mildew by first brushing the area to remove as much of the organism as possible. Pre-treat the area by rubbing with bleach. Launder in the hottest water recommended for the fabric plus bleach. Test for colorfastness. If the garment is not safe in chlorine bleach substitute bleach.

Grease, Butter, Margarine, Oil, Mayonnaise, Ice Cream, Chocolate, Cosmetics
Apply liquid bleach stain remover and rub into stain. Launder with detergent and liquid bleach in hottest water recommended for fabric.

Gravy, Mustard, Ketchup and Other Tomato-Based Products
Presoak in powdered bleach and detergent in warm or hot water. Launder with detergent and liquid bleach. If oily stain remains, use Stain Out on stain and launder again.

Crayons
Place the stained surface down on a pad of paper towels, spray with WD-40, and let stand for a few minutes. Turn the fabric over and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and work into the stained area. Replace towels as they absorb the stain. Wash in hot water with a laundry detergent and bleach for about 12 minutes (use "heavy soiled" setting if there is no minute timer on your machine), and rinse in warm water.

Fruit-Flavored Drinks, Juices
Soak in cool water. Rub bar soap into the stain or pretreat with liquid bleach. Wash right away with detergent and bleach or bleach in hottest water recommended for fabric.

Dye That Bleeds
Dye transfer is caused when unstable dye colors "bleed" from one fabric to another. Their removal is often difficult. To minimize problem, sort loads by color, and always remove clothes from washer as soon as rinse cycle is complete. Re-launder affected items right away with detergent and liquid bleach. If color remains (on all-white fabrics only) use a packaged color remover or stripper sold under the "Rit" label.

Diaper Stains, Vomit
Rinse off soils. Presoak. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric with appropriate bleach, To kill bacteria that contribute to diaper rash, add liquid bleach to the wash cycle.

Vitamins, Liquid Pain Relievers
Pretreat and let sit for 5 minutes. Launder in hottest water possible, using appropriate bleach.

Mayonnaise, Mustard, Salad Dressing
Pretreat, launder in hottest water safe for fabric, using appropriate bleach.

We remain with Best Regards
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Your Perfect Formal Wardrobe.

2007-09-19T22:44:00.000-07:00

Shop smart
The suit you buy for your interview will not be the last one you ever buy, but since it may be the first one you own, it has to be versatile: Think of it as the Swiss Army knife in your closet.

“How to Buy a Business Suit”

WHAT DO I BUY FIRST?

Primary
* Suits
* Sport jackets
* Dress shirts
* Dress pants
* Ties

Secondary
* Chinos
* Sweaters
* Polo shirts
* Shoes
* Socks
* Belts
* Overcoats
* Accessories

SHOP SMART: PANTS

Color:Dark gray = All business.Black = Sophisticated, urban.Tan = Earthy but sophisticated.Fabric: For year-round, mid weight wool and wool blends will get you through most seasons. In summertime, a tropical wool or linen is often more comfortable, while winter, a heavier wool or wool flannel will keep you better insulated.

Style: Again, the big decision here is whether to go with pleated or flat-front pants. Each is appropriate, but some larger men may find pleated trousers more roomy . Pleated pants should be cuffed<1> whereas flat-front trousers often look more streamlined when un cuffed. As for the width of the legs, styles vary slightly every season, but not enough so that It’s noticeable. Basically, stay away from the extremes: Too narrow or too baggy. Most important, wear your trousers on your gut, but it only highlights the fact that you have one. It just looks sloppy.

SHOP SMART: THE POLO SHIRT/SWEATER
What it says: Although more casual than a shirt and tie, a nice polo sweater says you know how to work hard and still be comfortable.How to say it best: A polo works best with a sport jacket, but it’s refined enough to be paired with a suit. Navy and charcoal gray will mix best with your suits, while a maroon or dark green would likely go well with the sport jackets.

SHOP SMART: BRIEFCASES
Soft briefcase: The soft briefcase has replaced the hard case in the last decade.How to say it best: A soft leather briefcase should also be black, dark brown, or tan with either brass or silver fixtures.The attaché case: This tradition hand case tells people you’re all business nothing is going to get in the way of your work, even if you have to lock it up.How to say it best: Black, brown, or tan leather with brass or silver fixtures.

GOALS
There or four suits, several sport jackets and pants, many shirts and ties, a few pairs of shoes, and handful of power accessories.Why it matters: Building the proper business wardrobe is critical to success in the workplace as it prepares you for every occasion and signals to everyone that you being.Guidelines: What do I need? How much do I need?Quality control: At this point in your professional life, buy the best you can afford for your budget. It will certainly affect the quantity of what you purchase, but in the long run, the quality items will last longer and give you a greater return on the investment.

HALF WINDSOR
In this stage of your career, you have added some shirts and ties for special occasions. With a spread collar and slightly and thicker tie, a half windsor ,makes a nice knot.However, it should be an accent, not an everyday event P.M. over A.M.
1. Being with the tie’s wide end approximately one foot below the narrow end, and cross it over the narrow end, bringing it back underneath.

2. Take the wide end up trough the loop and pass it around the front from left to right.

3. Bring it through the loop again and pass it through the knot in front.

4. Tighten the knot slowly s you draw it up to the collar.Work

Wardrobe
As you begin to flourish in the workplace, your wardrobe must expand along with you. Always consider the atmosphere of your office, what your position is, and the long-term goals you have as you choose your business attire. And remember that what you see on the following pages needn’t be accumulated immediately or even one year. A wardrobe, like a career, tales time to build.

“The whole secret of a successful life is to find out what it is one’s destiny to do, and then do it.

”DO MY CLOTHES MEAN BUSINESS?

Navy Interview Suit + 3 Suits = Work Wardrobe

As with your interview suit, the suits you buy should be the best quality you can afford in classic styles. Following these guidelines will allow you versatility and will make your budget go further.Dark gray suitJust like a navy suit, gray is basic but vital. Everything looks good with gray and everything mixes with it. The fabric should be a worsted wool that can be worn nearly all year-round. A two-or three-button style is best , either with a single rear vent or without.The world, of course, is not black and white, it’s gray and with good reason. It’s elegant and formal. A man in gray is serious and unassailable. The tailoring on this suit should be the same s with the inside of the waist, they’re for suspenders.

Light Gray Suit
For a third suit, light gray is a smart option. It is just as versatile as its darker cousin, and can be worn further into the summer months. A khaki suit is an alternative for this as well.Opt for some variation between your gray suits. For instance, if the dark one is two-button, make this one there.

Khaki Popkin Suit
A warm weather essential for any man, the khaki suit is like navy for the summer. Split this suit in half when on the road and you have a pair of khaki pants or a khaki pants or a khaki jacket.The khaki suit is slightly more casual than darker suits, poplin is also lightweight, which makes it ideal for summer. Because the fabric is so lightweight, be sure the suit is pressed often. Otherwise, you can look like an unmade bed.

Bulletproof
The most formal sport jacket there is, a blazer is appropriate un any work environment and arguably the hardest-working item in your closet. A blazer with a little bit of structure in the shoulders and lining will fit more like a suit jacket than a more casual coat. Traditionally, the blazer has gold buttons, but almost any store will offer dark navy buttons as well, or replace them free of charge. Go for this option: You’re not Thurston Howell lll.

The Blue Blazer
The blue blazer is like the remote control: Quite simply, on man can live without one. Perfect for the office, business lunchs travel, and weekends, a blazer can dress you up and take you anywhere. As with your suits, try to get a wool blazer that’s enough for summer and heavy enough for winter. Two-button single-breasted is there-button is perfectly acceptable.

COLLAR
The collar of a jacket or suit should be lined with wool. This will help it lie flat against the neck and shoulders.

BUTTONS
Look for quality stitching around the buttons, meaning the thread itself many times to anchor them.

POCKETS
The pockets should be lined with rayon or cotton. This will help the jacket maintain its shape better. To ensure this even more, don’t open your jacket pockets.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Do You Dress Smart?

2007-01-15T21:02:00.000-08:00

You only seven seconds to make an impression. Clothes make the difference! So dress smart!

Here is a short question and answer game to test your knowledge.

1. - I work for a traditional law firm with a strict corporate dress code. I am traveling with my boss to a three-day conference that we leave for no a Sunday afternoon. Can I wear my weekend jeans and sneakers on our flight?

2.- Do I need to wear a suit to my interview if know the office dress casual?

3. - I don’t see my upper management very often, so is there any point in making an investment in my business wardrobe?

4. - I am an accountant at a firm that employs a corporate dress code. I have a meeting at a client’s firm that has a casual dress code. Should I follow their dress code for the meeting?

5. - Throughout college and summer jobs I have always worn loafers Without socks would that be appropriate on casual Fridays in The summer?

6. - I am forty year old in a youth-oriented company, and I’m in Competition for a promotion. Should I update my image with
A more hip look?

7. - I think my boss dresses too casually for his position. Is it okay For me to dress more formally than him?

8. - Can I wear a button-down shirt with a pinstripe suit?

9. - I just got a promotion where I now oversee an entire department. A suit is just a suit whether I pay $ or $$$, so do I need to change My wardrobe?

10. - I believe I should be judged by the work I do and not the way I look. Does it really make a difference to dress the part, if my work is good?

And the Answers are ....

1. no 2. yes 3.yes 4.no 5.no 6.no 7.yes 8.yes 9.yes 10.yes

So, How did you do?

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The S-numbers Game - Makers Tout The Super Of Their Suit - We Put 10 To Test!

2006-11-26T21:12:00.000-08:00

The men’s floor at any upscale retailer has suits in a wide range of prices colors and cuts. But many have one thing in common: The now-ubiquitous labels that promote the quality of the fabric with number like “Super 110s” and “Super 150s.
Just as cotton bed sheets trumpet thread octane, suit makers are using these number to tout their wool. Higher numbers translate to narrower fibers, which makers say are softer to the touch. It’s one of several tactics the suit industry is using to combat slowing sales. On the high end, makers are pushing suits in the Super 220s range for thousands of dollars. Discounters are also adopting the system, hoping to convince shoppers that a superior suit can be had at lower prices.
Industry groups are now calling these numbers into question, prompted in part by makers of superfine wool fabrics concerned about lower-priced suits being la-bled with high Super numbers. But the issue isn’t limited to inexpensive suits.
In a test of 10 suits by the Wall Street Journal, ranging in price from $290 to $1,995, four came back with a Super grade below what was advertised. We also tested for durability and wrinkle-resistance, and found that some suits with higher Super numbers didn’t deliver superior performance on those measures.

The in store wrinkle test
Though there’s no way for shoppers to verify a suit’s Super number without access to a textile laboratory, there are a few simple tests shopper can perform themselves in stores to gauge the quality of a suit. One trick to figure out how easily a suit will wrinkle - clench a sleeve in your fist for a few minutes, them let it go a good-quality fabric should re-bound quickly. Rayon linings known as Bamberg are generally more durable than silk or other materials, while twills, like herringbone, tend to be stronger materials than plain weaves.
The boom in S-numbers is part of a broader by suit makers to set their garments apart from the competition. Sales have cooled from the torrid pace of a couple of years ago, when the casual style of the dot-com era went out of vogue and men started dressing up again. Through September this year, Sales in the U.S. are down 10% from the same period a year earlier, according to market researcher NPD Group.

Selling with S-numbers
Makers say S-numbers are proving be effective sales tools. Many men have a hard
time deciding what to buy. The numbers add a quantitative dimension that makes decision-making less intimidating. There are also bragging rights. S-numbers give men “something to discuss at a cocktail party,” says Roger Cohen, president of the U.S. division of suit maker Cornelian.
That was the attraction for Craig Weiss, a 51-year-old psychologist in Pennsylvania, who bought $3,000 navy blue Brioni suit years ago. He says he thought a higher S-number was “a thing to aspire to.” But Mr. Weiss says the suit let him down, wrinkling more than his less-expensive suits did. It also felt so light and delicate that he worried about it ripping. “It took all the fun out of wearing it,” he says, adding that he now wears the suit only for special occasions and buys lower S-numbered suits for everyday use. Brioni says it has not heard any complaints about its Super 150s.
Part of what makes the S-number system confusing is that higher quality wool doesn’t also mean more durable wool. The number relates only to the diameter of the fiber, measured in microns. Thinner fibers are usually more fragile. These suits tend to bunch up when tailored and can wear out after a few dry cleanings. “A very high S-system number doesn’t guarantee the best garments,” says Andy Gilchrist, author of “The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes.” Such wools wrinkle almost as much as linen. They are delicate and not as durable as less-fine wool.

The fineness of the fabric is only one measure of a suit’s quality. Strength is also a factor, and it also depends on the length of the yarn and whether it’s reinforced with another strand to make it two ply. In some cloth, only yarn that runs vertically is reinforced, while in others, reinforced yarns run horizontally as well. The latter, called “two by two,” tends to be stronger and better at recovering form wrinkles.
Suit makers acknowledge that fabrics with high S-numbers are delicate and lightweight. But are delicate and lightweight. But some say that a suit made of high quality Sipper 150s or above could be worn to the office once a week and week and would last four or five years, if it’s rarely dry cleaned. That’s roughly half as long as a good-quality Super 120s suit under the same conditions. Several salespeople at stores from York advised us not to buy suits with high S-numbers for anything but special occasions.
To determine the accuracy of advertised S-numbers, we purchased 10 suits at retail outlets and sent them to Vartest Laboratories, a New York firm that tests fibers and fabrics for lab measured the diameter. The lab measured the diameters wool fiber in microns. In addition, we tested two other factors: durability and how susceptible the material is to wrinkling.
Six of the suits we tested passed with flying colors, with results that matched or exceeded their promised s-numbers, including two of our least expensive choices and Arnold Brant and Jos. A. Bank, both Super 110s that cost less than $300. A pricier Hickey Freeman Super 120s was found to have Super 130s fibers. Hickey Freeman declined to comment.

Warp and weft
Our overall winner in the other two categories strength and wrinkle-resistance was the @300 Arnold Brant suit. Its warp, or vertical yarns, withstood nearly 37 kilograms of pressure before ripping that’s about 18 kilograms more than the industry’s minimum standard. We also tested the weft of all our suits, or horizontal yarns, since some fabric makers reinforce only the warp.
The first Super 100s wool was developed in the 1960s, by an English fabric mill. The first merchants to see it were so astounded that, in fit of exuberance, they dubbed it super 100s, according to the book “The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men’s Style,” written by Michael Anton under the pen name Nicholas Antongiavanni. By the mid-1990s, high-end clothiers, custom-suit makers and Italian mills began using Super numbers more often to market directly to consumers. Soon, the numbers began appearing on labels inside suits or on the sleeves. Says Arnold Brant, President of the clothing company that bears his name: “if it’s a navy suit and it says Super 120s, it tells the customer this is a wool that’s a better grade. This is not a typical navy suit.”

Some suit makers think S-numbers have been overdone. Oxxford Clothes, whose handmade suits are sold for thousands of dollars, plans to stop labeling everything below Super 150s, starting very inexpensive suits advertised as Super 120s and that muddies the water, chief executive
Others, like Ermenegildo Zegna, an Italian firm that makes fabric as well as suits, don’t tout the S-number on their labels either. Djordje Stefabovic, executive director of communications for Zegna, says the company relies on its reputation for making fine fabrics: “As yarn suit producers, we didn’t want to pay that number game.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tuxedo : Renting And Buying Basics

2006-10-08T22:11:00.000-07:00

Unless you're exchanging vows on a beach in Kauai, your best Bermuda shorts won't make the cut -- you'll need formalwear in which to greet your bride. If you have season tickets to the opera, you may already be a tuxedo owner, all set to look snazzy on your big day. But otherwise, the question is whether to rent or buy.

TO RENT OR TO BUY?
Money is the main factor in your decision. Renting will cost about 10% to 30% of the price of a new tuxedo; the average price for a decent tux is between $300 and $500. If you attend three or four formal events per year, buying a tux may be worthwhile. Plus, a good tux is an investment -- you can wear it for years. But if you'd rather slather your body in hot tar than wear a coat and tie a couple of times a year, go for the rental. It's not a big hassle, and you won't be stuck with thin lapels when extra-wide ones come back in style.

Also, if you look toward Howard Hughes as your anti-germ model, you may want to go for your very own, sanitized tux. Rentals are used by who knows how many men, not all of whom share your high hygiene standards. Of course, rental tuxes are cleaned between each use (another cost to factor into your decision), but if you really can't stand the thought of another sweating-buckets nervous groom donning your tuxedo, buying may be for you.

RENTAL TIPS
Rental-minded types should keep the following tidbits in mind when choosing a wedding ensemble:

Choose a formalwear store that has updated their inventory regularly since 1976. (If you see powder blue and ruffles, run.)

A good formalwear dealer will know how to measure you properly (inseam, waist, jacket size) and give you a fitting in advance of the wedding.

The dealer should also listen to you. If you're of the fashionable persuasion and want a dark blue, 5-button mandarin collar tux, but the dealer's praising a silver tux with tails, you'll know you've come to the wrong shop. Politely say thanks but no thanks and vamoose on out of there.

The store should be able to supply you with all the accessories you'll need: bow tie, cummerbund, cufflinks, suspenders, even shoes.

Finally, have all your groomsmen get their monkey suits at the same shop, so you'll be wearing matching duds. Even though they may live in various parts of the country, reserve their tuxedos at least three months in advance and you'll be set.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Flight Suits - Your Wardobe When You Travel

2006-09-03T21:41:00.000-07:00

IT'S the beginning of another summer travel season, and passengers at some of the busiest airports look little different than if they were shopping at a mall, their increasingly casual wardrobe of T-shirts and shorts having eclipsed any remnants of the golden era of travel, that time before airline deregulation led to cheap tickets, when dressing for the airport meant dressing up.

But take a closer look, and it's apparent that many travelers are even less well dressed than if they were at the mall. Savvy passengers have discerned the subtleties of passing hassle free through the Transportation Security Administration's checkpoints. Chic at the airport this summer means no lace-up dress shoes, no belts, no heavy-metal jewelry, no jackets required.

Dressing up isn't worth the effort when it is likely to lead to the sort of indignities experienced last week by Donna Repko, a business traveler at O'Hare Airport in Chicago. After passing through security in the late afternoon rush on her way home to Boston, Ms. Repko suddenly turned to a screener and said with a sense of urgency, "I think my jacket got caught in your machine." A moment later, a gray plastic bin poked its way through the X-ray machine. Scrunched beneath it was a ball of white pleated cotton, smudged with black streaks. "This is why I don't dress up for travel," Ms. Repko said.

For decades, the old fashioned have lamented the way young people - and now most people - dress for air travel. The advent of more stringent security measures in the nearly four years since the 9/11 attacks might have been expected to usher in a return to formal dressing, as a way of appearing respectable and drawing less scrutiny. But in fact the opposite seems to have happened.

"If you have on a fine suit, you don't want to fold it up and put it through that machine," said Richard B. Lanman, a medical lecturer from Los Altos, Calif., who travels at least three days a week. "I think there is generally an incentive to be more casual. I'm more inclined to dress down. There has been a continual degradation of any fashion sense in the past decade. You can't believe what you're seeing." Ann Davis, a spokeswoman for the security administration, said there was no style of dress or item of clothing that led screeners to single out passengers for extra scrutiny.

Among the 50 or so passengers interviewed this month at airports in New York, Atlanta and Chicago, there was no consensus about whether any clothes attracted extra attention. But there was wide agreement that the simpler and more dressed-down, the more efficient the experience.

On its Web site, the security administration advises against wearing metallic jewelry, belt buckles and hidden body piercings and says passengers who set off the metal detector will be subject to hand-wanding or a pat-down that includes the torso. "Screeners do have some discretion and can refer a passenger to additional screening if they notice any irregularity to a passenger's contour, or if it appears there is an item protruding underneath their clothing," Ms. Davis said.

At Kennedy Airport in New York last week , passengers who would normally consider themselves fashionable were willing to commit a faux pas to get through security. John Robshaw, a textiles executive, wore a denim shirt tucked into denim jeans, but no belt. Sarah Flood, an oncology nurse, was in white short shorts, a green T-shirt and blue hoodie that matched her carry-on bag. "This is not my fashion day," she said, a newly purchased bohemian cotton skirt, the look of the season, packed in her checked luggage.

As they have become conditioned to the intrusiveness of modern security measures, undressing and redressing in front of revolving casts of strangers, travelers have developed new routines of composure, evolving their wardrobes to speed them along. And clothing makers have come up with innovations to meet their needs. Shoe companies like Florsheim, Clarks and Rockport sell "airport friendly" shoes without steel shanks. Underwear makers promote support bras made without an underwire, as even a small bit of metal can trigger a sensitive alarm.

"Americans have simplified the way they dress for travel," said Valerie Steele, the chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. "It's not a question of dressing better or worse. It's about dressing in a way that is more transparent."

At the USAir terminal at LaGuardia Airport in New York, the sartorial adaptations to modern air travel played out with a sense of theater. After collecting their boarding passes, a handful of businessmen stepped over to a ficus tree and rested their briefcases on a concrete planter as they patted themselves down, checked their pants pockets for keys, coins, pagers and cell phones, which they transferred to bags or jackets, then removed the jackets and merged into the line waiting to pass through security.

Without being told, they took off their shoes and placed them into gray plastic bins. They neatly folded their jackets - the pockets now full of the metal objects of everyday necessity - on top of their bags.

"People travel a lot differently today than they did 20 or 30 years ago," said Joanne Smith, the president of Song Airlines, Delta's discount division. For professional women, wearing a jacket now means wearing something underneath that won't cause embarrassment when the jacket is removed. Those who will only wear high heels sometimes have to make other concessions.

"I usually wear dress heels, and I take them off to avoid further screening," Ms. Smith said. "I don't like to be barefoot, so I put a pair of socks in my bag or I always try to wear hose. I know. I'm a glamour don't. But I feel very old fashioned that way."

Bishop Cheen, a financial analyst, said he had to dress up for business, and after a meeting in Manhattan on an unseasonably hot and humid spring day, Mr. Cheen, 56, was wearing a slightly disheveled suit, which he paired with an overstuffed Jansport backpack to keep his hands free while fumbling with his boarding pass and ID for his trip home to Charlotte, N.C.

He had it down to a science: he pulled a plastic identification holder from the backpack and slipped his driver's license inside, displayed on a string of metal beads around his neck.

"If I wasn't traveling for business, I'd be in a T-shirt, and I wouldn't be wearing these shoes," he said, pointing to his lace-ups.

Men like Mr. Lanman, the medical lecturer, have another secret: wearing a dress shirt with a pocket to store their boarding passes and identification, although it didn't appear to be much of a secret on a recent Delta flight to Atlanta, where business class resembled a nerd convention, recalling the days of pocket protectors. "I'm in a constant feud with my wife over this," Mr. Lanman said. "She says it's not cool."

The most obvious difference in the way people dress since security measures were increased is the popularization of easily removable footwear like loafers, flip-flops and sandals. More than a quarter of the people traveling that afternoon at LaGuardia wore flip-flops. Having slipped out of their footwear to be screened, they looked like members of a religious pilgrimage.

On its Web site, the security administration pointedly says passengers are "not required" to remove their shoes before entering a walk-through metal detector. Screeners, the site says, might "encourage" them to do so if they are wearing boots, platform shoes or the many kinds of dress shoes that contain metal. But even the casual traveler seems to suspect duplicity in this policy. The widespread assumption is that refusing to remove one's shoes is a red flag to screeners.

Doug McNamee, who works for a pharmaceuticals company, bought a pair of loafers specifically designed for modern air travel last month. He said he was told the shoes had no metal in them. But the first trip he took, the shoes caused Mr. McNamee to become the subject of additional screening.

"It may have been an overzealous salesman who said these shoes did not have a steel shank," Mr. McNamee said. "Or maybe it was a sensitive scanner, but I would try anything to get through security faster. I get frustrated standing in line watching people in boots that lace halfway up their legs. I am desperate to get a high-speed lane for business travelers. I'll give my fingerprints, hair samples, saliva, anything."

As most passengers have gotten used to the new security administration procedures, security delays have decreased significantly across the nation in the past year, the agency says. At many airports the majority of wait times recorded by the security administration now approximate its targeted goal of under 10 minutes, meaning all that travelers like Mr. McNamee have to do is wait.

from the NYT - by ERIC WILSON

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Wool Specialty Fibers - For Mens Suits

2006-08-06T20:12:00.000-07:00

WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool's are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration's which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration's will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool's require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.

WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair's luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel's hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel's hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.

Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard. One of the best, most luxurious wool for suits is the vicuna wool taken from the vicuna of the Andes mountains in South America.

The vicuña is a member of the camel family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel, and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses and festuca grows here. The sun's ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperatures go down to freezing.

Although they look fragile, the vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent's, so they can eat the tough grasses. The vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña milk is very rich so the babies grow quickly.

Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds. They are about 4-6 feet long and stand 2-3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair.
Vicuñas graze mostly on grasses. Their teeth are large and grow constantly like those of a rodent. They chew their cud when resting getting more nutrients out of the nutrient poor grass.

Vicuñas are very shy animals and run away very quickly. They have two territories that they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres, and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, when they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and the young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.

The vicuña was almost hunted to extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. In modern times they were almost wiped out for their meat and wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Halach Compliant Non Shatnez Custom Clothing

2006-05-09T05:08:00.000-07:00

Certain things go together naturally, like peas and carrots. And certain things don't, like toothpaste and orange juice.

The Torah teaches about the power of combinations and warns against mixing the wrong things together. One of these is the prohibition against wearing a mixture of wool and linen in the same piece of clothing, as it is written, "You shall not wear combined fibers, wool and linen together" (Deut. 22:11).

In Hebrew, this forbidden mixture is called "shatnez" (pronounced shot-nezz).

Shatnez is an acronym for "combed, spun and woven," which describes the stages in processing fabric: combing the raw fiber, spinning fibers into a thread, and weaving the threads into cloth.

The mitzvah of shatnez still applies today. We observe the mitzvah by checking manufacturer labels on the clothes we buy, and by sending suspicious items (like wool suits and coats) to a "shatnez laboratory" for checking.

Clothes are a unique part of being human; only people wear clothes. Shatnez is a constant reminder that all our actions must be "kosher."

Interestingly, "holy garments" are exempt from the prohibition of shatnez. For example, the special garments worn by a Kohen while serving in the Holy Temple contained both wool and linen. Similarly, it is theoretically permitted to wear tzitzit that has shatnez (though there are technical factors which don't allow this today). The explanation may be that these garments are already inherently "kosher."

WHAT'S THE REASON?

The Torah does not explain the reason for shatnez, and it is categorized as a chok -- a law whose logic is not evident. The Torah has many such laws; we do not know why pork is forbidden, for example. And the prohibition of shatnez is equally strong.

Why did God make a chok in the first place? What's the purpose of a commandment whose reason we have no inkling of?

The power of a chock is as follows: If the reasons for all the mitzvot were as obvious as "don't murder" or "don't steal," then a person could go through life without developing a relationship with God. How so? Just as there are many fine, upstanding people who don't murder -- not because they believe in God, but simply because they understand that it's wrong -- we might likewise observe mitzvot simply because they "make sense."

Leaving God out of the picture would be missing the point entirely. That would be humanism, not Judaism.

Having said all this, God still wants us to use our intellect to understand the mitzvot to the best of our ability. Thus the commentators suggest different "explanations" for shatnez.

One idea is that he mixing wool and linen upsets the environmental and/or metaphysical fabric of the universe. God created different species that work together in the symphony of creation. Our job is to respect and appreciate this diversity and help maintain this special orderliness.

The Midrash suggests that the reason stems from the story of Cain and Abel, as recorded in Genesis chapter 4. Cain brought God an offering of flax (the source of linen) and Abel brought a sheep (wool). The incident resulted in Cain killing Abel, and it was thus decreed that never again shall the two substances mix.

This is perhaps hinted to by the Torah juxtaposing the prohibition of shatnez with the imperative to "love your neighbor as yourself" (Leviticus 19:18-19). Each person must cherish his own uniqueness and not feel threatened by others. Cain did not understand that he and his brother had different tasks in life, different roles in creation.

PRACTICAL LAWS OF SHATNEZ

Shatnez is forbidden when it is worn as a normal garment -- i.e. to protect from the cold, rain and heat.

It is therefore permitted to try on a new outfit for size, even though it may contain shatnez.

Even the smallest amount of shatnez is forbidden. For example, if you have a wool suit and the buttons are sewn with linen thread, it is forbidden to wear the suit until the linen thread is removed.

Someone who discovers they are wearing shatnez is required to remove the garment immediately.

It is likewise forbidden for a Jew to manufacture or sell shatnez clothing, unless he can be certain that only non-Jews will purchase it.

Getting Clothes Checked

Clothes that list wool or linen on the label should be taken to a certified shatnez laboratory, where they will be checked under a microscope. Checking a suit usually costs around $10.

Even though only one of the two forbidden fibers is listed, the odds of finding shatnez is greatly increased. Manufacturers are not required by law to reveal every element in their clothing. Even if a garment says 100 percent wool, it may legally still contain linen threads. For example, linen neckties often have a wool lining.

Garments are usually safe from shatnez if neither linen nor wool are mentioned on the label. Though men's suits and winter coats should be checked for shatnez regardless of the listed materials.

Also be aware of clothes containing reprocessed materials or unknown fibers, frequently listed on garment tags as O.F. (other fibers).

In many cases, the shatnez can be easily removed because the wool and linen are not combined in the basic fabric of the garment. Once the shatnez is removed, it becomes permitted to wear the garment.

For example, shatnez is commonly found in men's suits which are made of wool or wool blends. To retain the shape of the collar area, a canvas stiffener is generally sewn into the collar, and linen is the fabric considered by the clothing industry as being the best material for this purpose. The more expensive the suit, the greater the likelihood that linen is used. If linen is found in a collar canvas, it can easily be removed and replaced with a non-linen canvas.

ONE GARMENT WORN OVER ANOTHER

There are a few more details about shatnez that are important to know.

It is permitted to wear a linen garment over a wool garment, or vice versa, since they are not attached to each other. For example, it is permitted to wear a linen jacket and wool pants, or a linen scarf wrapped around a wool dress, or a linen tie under a wool jacket.

Buttoning a wool and linen garment together -- even on a permanent basis -- is not considered an attachment because the garments can be easily unfastened. It is therefore permitted to wear a wool coat together with an inner lining of linen, if they are buttoned (but not sewn) together. The same applies with snaps or Velcro, since they can be easily detached.

There is one restriction, however, in wearing wool and linen garments on top of each other: One needs to determine if the inner garment can somehow be removed without completely removing the outer garment. If not, then the garments are considered attached to one another. Therefore, wearing wool pants over linen underwear is considered shatnez. So when wearing one garment of wool and one of linen -- like coats, sweaters, jackets, dresses and blouses -- one must determine if the garments underneath can be removed without removing the top one first.

NON-GARMENTS

One final issue:

While the Torah prohibits wearing shatnez ("shatnez on the body"), "shatnez beneath the body" (e.g. upholstery and carpets) is forbidden by rabbinical prohibition. Therefore, sitting, lying, or walking on shatnez is prohibited when there is the concern that the shatnez material may come off and cling to the body.

This prohibition largely depends on the softness of materials used. For example, if the shatnez material used in the seat of a chair is soft or plush, it is forbidden to sit on the chair.

Wool carpets can also be a problem, as linen is sometimes used as a backing. Walking barefoot or sitting on a shatnez carpet would be prohibited where there is direct body contact. If the carpet is tightly woven, and loose threads are unlikely to come off, the carpet would not be a problem.

If there is doubt about the fabric content of upholstery and carpets, you should arrange to have them checked by a shatnez laboratory.

There is a story about the "Steipler," a great 20th century rabbi. He arranged for a date with a young woman in a distant town, which necessitated taking a train to get there. The night before the train ride, he stayed up all night learning Torah, thinking that he could make up his lost sleep on the train. But upon entering the train, he suspected that the seat cushions contained shatnez -- and wound up standing throughout the entire journey, continuing to study.

When the Steipler arrived and met the young woman (actually the sister of the Chazon Ish) for their "first date," he proceeded to fall asleep right away. The woman was riled, but upon checking into the matter she discovered what had happened -- and was so impressed that she insisted they be married!

For further reading, see the book, "A Guide to Shatnez," by Rabbi Dovid Loebenstein.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Secrets Of Buying A Mens Business Suit

2006-04-03T04:44:00.000-07:00

Just stick to basics, and you'll look great

When new customers enter Guffey's haberdashery in Buckhead in search of a new suit, sales associate Dan Mullis recites three key factors, almost by rote.

"First there's the choice of fabric," he says. "Next comes the detailing."

Then comes the most vital element: "Measuring the garment so that it fits exactly."

Notice that "what's trendy" does not make the cut.

A recent study by NPD Group —a market research firm — indicates that more young men are purchasing tailored clothing. Compared with the previous year, guys between the ages of 18 and 24 accounted for a 53 percent increase in suit, slack and sport-coat sales in 2005. And there's a strong likelihood that these guys are woefully inexperienced at buying suits.

Finding the right suit isn't exactly a science. But it helps to focus more on balance and proportion than all the bells and whistles that designers come up with each season.

"Your body dictates almost everything you need to know about choosing a suit," said Alan Flusser, the New York-based tailor, designer and author of three books on menswear.

Menswear experts offered a few tips to help guide the uninitiated through the process of purchasing a new suit. Their suggestions should serve notice that, while suit styles may change over time, the rules for dressing well remain constant.

A Few TIPS:

1. The fit factor
Generally, suits should fit snug — but not tight — around the torso. To test: Make sure there's just enough room to slip a hand inside the breast flap. Jacket sleeves should drop to just above the palm of the hand.

2. Proportion takes precedence
Wide lapels, shirt collars and neckties can overwhelm a slender physique. Conversely, narrow shoulders, neckwear and collars magnify the proportions of fuller-figured men. And the width of a necktie also should be in proportion to coat lapels.

3. Details make a difference
Standard or surgeon's cuffs, with functioning buttons, ticket pockets and side vents are small touches that can add a lot to a suit.

4. Opt for flat-front pants
Pleated pants tend to make legs and hips appear wider, while flat-front pants create the opposite effect.

5. Don't fixate on the price
Consider a suit an investment. A $1,500 designer suit does not guarantee greater quality than a $200 suit purchased at a department store or men's warehouse chain. For a custom-made suit — which allows the customer to select the fabric and tailoring details —prices can hover around $2,500.

6. Why navy blue's a classic
For long-term value, invest in one suit that can easily transition from business to formal occasions. "Navy looks great in the office, and it works at night as well," says Nick Sullivan, fashion director for Esquire magazine. "The best color for a tuxedo isn't black. It's actually midnight blue. And with navy, you have a choice of wearing black or brown shoes and accessories."

7. Select a fabric that matches your lifestyle
How much do you travel? How often will you wear the suit? Dan Mullis of Guffey's haberdashery says these questions will narrow the list of fabric choices.

8. Don't look like a sailboat
Double vents in the rear can billow unflatteringly on men with prodigious backsides.

9. Big guys don't wear plaid
Patterns such as plaids and stripes tend to exaggerate the proportions of large men, while making the contours of a slender man more prominent.

10. Cuffs vs. no cuffs
Cuff-free slacks tend to elongate the look of the leg. Cuffed pants have a truncating effect because the vertical line is disrupted.

11. Button up in style
Suits with two-button jackets tend to flatter any physique. Three-button suits can make short men appear even more squat, while the elongated lapels on a one-button suit can make them appear taller.

12. Looking like LettermanDouble-breasted suits have a slenderizing effect on portly men, while that extra panel of fabric can appear to swallow the physique of slender men.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Wearing A Mens Bespoke Suit

2006-01-08T22:06:00.000-08:00

A Bespoke suit is almost certainly made from animal hair, and in turn it is almost certain that animal is a sheep. Wool has several unique properties. It is an immensely strong fibre that resists creasing and retains heat in cold weather but releases it when conditions are warm. The coarseness of the wool and the length of the fibres dictate its fineness and the finest wools are every bit as soft as cashmere. The very best wools are grown from the merino sheep in Australia.

Suits made from wool naturally have the same properties as the fibres themselves. On a sheep's back the only cleaning the fleece gets is from rainwater, and water (in various forms) is plenty good enough for a suit. Dry cleaning and the chemicals used in the process are not good for wool, stripping the material of its natural properties. Although there are occasions when a suit has to be dry cleaned (severe stains for example), most garments should be treated with steam by a tailor. Depending on the size of your wardrobe, a suit should not be worn more than once a week and if hung properly, it will then not need to be pressed more than once a year.
other relevant links:
recognize bespoke suit
To hang a suit you will need one hanger and a clip for the trousers. The hanger should be shaped with bulbous ends protruding slightly from the centre. The jacket should be placed on the hanger and padded with polythene or tissue paper to retain its shape. Hangers are far from perfect on their own. The trousers should be hung from the trouser clip by the bottoms. There is more weight in the waistband and by hanging the garment upside down any creases will drop out more easily.

A FEW TIPS

1) The lighter the weight of material used in a suit the more it will wear. Heavier cloths are more robust. If you are ordering a light weight suit always consider ordering an extra pair of trousers, particularly if you use the suit in circumstances when you usually remove your jacket. Remember that it is difficult to buy another pair of trousers for a favourite suit subsequent to its initial purchase. Materials are discontinued and shade will vary from one batch of cloth to another even if it remains available. The darker and less patterned a suit, the less likely this is to be a problem.

2)Contrary to popular opinion, a suit can be packed in a case if it is folded properly. With the coat, turn the suit inside out and reverse one of the armholes so that it fits into the other. Stuff the suit with tissue paper before packing. With trousers fold at the knee, but again protect the fold with tissue paper. If the suit is hung properly on arrival it should be ready to use within 24 hours. If it is badly creased, hang the garment in the bathroom and generate some steam (i.e. turn on the shower). This will help creases to fall out.

3) Trousers tend to wear much more quickly than the jacket on almost all suits.

A few do's and don'ts:

a)Don't sit on leather as this shines the seat of the trousers

b)Don't stuff the pockets full of coins, keys, wallets etc unless you tell your tailor to strengthen the pockets when ordering the suit. He will then use stronger materials.

c) Do turn the trouser at the knee when seated so it doesn't stretch.

d) Do re-enforce the bottom on the trousers to stop fraying.

e)Do ask for a zip rather than buttons which while vastly more practical also avoids problems with pressing.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

King of All Tweeds

2005-12-12T02:26:00.000-08:00

The story of Harris Tweed is the story of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean.

For centuries the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra have woven the magical cloth the world knows as Harris Tweed, Clo Mhor
in the original Gaelic- 'The big cloth'.

From time immemorial, the inhabitants of the West of Scotland, including the Outer Hebrides had made cloth entirely by hand. As the Industrial Revolution reached Scotland, the mainland turned to mechanisation but the Outer Islands retained their traditional processes. Lewis and Harris had long been known for the excellence of the weaving done there, but up to the middle of the nineteenth century, the cloth was produced mainly for home use or for a purely local market.

In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry. At that time the method of making this handmade was as follows:
The raw material, wool, was produced locally and part of it would have been used in its natural uncoloured state, the rest was dyed. In the 19th century vegetable dyes were used. Following dyeing, the wool was mixed, the shade being regulated by the amount of coloured wool added; then it was oiled and teased; the latter process involves pulling the wool apart to open out the fibres. The next part of the preparation, carding, results in the fibres of the wool being drawn out preparatory to spinning. This was a very lengthy process followed by spinning carried out on familiar spinning-wheel by women. Until the turn of the century a very early type of handloom was used for weaving with a manually operated shuttle. The final process is finishing where the tweed is washed and given a raised compact finish. The involved in this process was often accompanied by songs in Gaelic.

As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.

At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved "fly-shuttle" loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.

Between 1903 and 1906 the tweed making industry in Lewis increased rapidly. Mr Aeneas Mackenzie's carding mill in Stornoway added spinning machinery and a second mill was started by Mr Kenneth Mackenzie from whom one of the largest Harris Tweed producing companies in existence takes its name today.

At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.

This meant the introduction of a system of whereby the tweed was inspected and, if passed, given a certifying stamp which would give confidence to the trade and public. A company limited by guarantee was formed under the title The Harris Tweed Association Limited. This was mainly to ensure the grant of a mark and an application was filed to register the well-known Harris Tweed Trade mark consisting of the orb and the Maltese Cross with the words Harris Tweed underneath. One of the objectives of obtaining a Mark was to protect the industry from the competition of the spinning mills.

The original definition read,"Harris Tweed means a tweed, hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides".

The Certification Mark was granted in 1909, registered in 1910 and stamping began in 1911. Amended Regulations were confirmed in June 1934 and the following was promulgated, "Harris Tweed means a tweed made from pure virgin wool produced in Scotland, spun, dyed and finished in Outer Hebrides and hand-woven by the islanders at their own homes in the Islands of Lewis , Harris, Uist, Barra and their several purtenances and all known as the Outer Hebrides".

There could be added in legible characters to the Trade Mark, the words "Woven in Lewis", "Woven in Harris", "Woven in Uist" or "Woven in Barra" for the purpose of distinguishing where the tweed was made".

The alteration in the Trademark Definition in 1934, allowing the use of millspun yarn, enabled the industry to make a huge leap in production. The stamped yardage increased tenfold and continued to increase till the peak figure of 7.6 million yards was reached in 1966.

The Hattersley single width loom The introduction of the Hattersley domestic loom in the 1920s enabled the weavers to produce more and to weave complicated patterns that could not be woven on the large wooden looms that were used for the previous 50 years.
This loom was brought to the islands by Lord Leverhulme who owned Lewis and Harris for some years and introduced many changes with mixed results.

The Hattersley loom is still used in the industry but is being replaced by the new Bonas-Griffith double width loom which was introduced in 1996 to satisfy market demands for wider, softer, lighter Harris Tweed. The Harris Tweed Association was the proprietor of the famous "Orb" Trademark. Throughout this century the HTA protected and promoted the Orb all over the world. The success of the industry meant that competitors tried to imitate Harris Tweed or pass off other fabrics as genuine. Much of the competition was from mainland Scotland and this led to a case at the Court of Session in 1964 that was, for a long time, the longest civil case in Scottish legal history. The judgement by Lord Hunter re-inforced the 1934 definition that tied all production processes to the Outer Hebrides and removed the threat of mainland competition. The years following the 1964 case were the most successful ever for Harris Tweed but, by the late 1980s the industry had begun to contract as fashions changed and the Harris Tweed jacket became less popular. The industry set out to transform itself by producing a new double width loom re-training weavers, introducing new, tougher Standards, marketing the new wider, softer, lighter tweed.
The Harris Tweed Authority took over from the Harris Tweed Association in 1993 by Act of Parliament. Thus the definition of Harris Tweed became statutory and forever tied the cloth to the Islands:

Harris Tweed means a tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.
The recent times have been difficult times for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Why Do Men Button Left Over Right And Women Right Over Left?

2005-11-03T20:35:00.000-08:00

The theory most often uttered is that men used to dress themselves, while women had the help of a maid. Since most people are right-handed, the buttoning was inverted for the sake of the maid.

Another theory says that women were forced to button themselves using the inferior hand, in order to show them that they themselves were inferior (to men, of course). This theory is based on the assumption that women buttoned their own dress, thus inherently contradicting the first theory.

Both theory are somewhat shaky. The former implies that a significant part of the female population had a maid available. N.B.: "Significant" does not necessarily mean "numerous", but "influential". Depending on the era we're looking at, the rich were the significant ones - the ones who made fashion - and they had maids. But does their influence also extend to such insignificant details as buttoning? The second theory is somewhat medieval. Misconceptions about female inferiority did exist until the early 20th century, but in the main the 18th century did away with most of them.

Both theories assume that the preference for one hand plays a role. Being left-handed, I readily complain about anything that makes life unnecessarily difficult for lefties, but I have never felt that buttoning, whichever way around, was a problem. You nomally use both hands, anyway - the rest is a matter of habit rather than of motoricity.

"Depending on the era": Which era are we looking at, anyway? Since when does the gender-related right-left distinction exist? If we know when the distinction was first made, we may discover the reason. So let's look at historical depictions.

Until the late 18th century, buttons are rare on women's dress. In the few earlier pictures, the direction often can't be determined. At least I've found one 14th century example where the buttons seem to sit in the right-hand edge (i.e. the "male" side), and two ditto examples from the 17th century. In the late 18th century, we find buttons on female dress relatively often, e.g. on comperes, jackets and redingote dresses. In every case, the buttons sit on the right side. In the 1830s, buttons are rare on women's clothes and evenly distributed between ruight and left, then nothing until the 1850s. During the 1850s, left sligthtly outweighs right. From the late 1860s on, buttons are quite common on women's dress - all left.

So the changeover from "mostly right" to "mostly left" must have taken place between 18010 and 1860, with nothing definitely decided yet until 1860. Since the middle of the 18th century, the production of women's clothes was largely in the hand of female artisans - would they have taken part in a scam that degrade women as in the second theory? And if they did, why did they stick with the "male" right-side buttoning for over 50 years? Maids did exist in the 18th century as muich as they did later, so why did it take 100 years until the buttoning was switched (according to the first theory) for their sake? Why should anyone do anything for the sake of the servants, anyway? Moreover, in the 17th and 18th century, there should have been as many men who had a manservant as there were ladies who had a maid. With the many buttons on the waistcoats and coats of the time - the closing of the lower ones required the wearer to bend -, one should assume that men, too, had help for dres!

sing. If the buttoning was switched for the sake of the servants, why was it done for the maids, who may have had to close a few buttons every now and then, but not for the manservants, who had to close dozens of buttons every day for sure?

There's a good hint by Janet Arnold referring to the fashion of the late 19th and early 20th century: As if to make up for the fact that clothing could be more easily made with the help of the sewing machine, the construction was made more complicated by adding trims (Patterns of Fashion 2, p. 4). A few yeare later Thorstein Veblen published his "Theory of the Leisure Class" (1899) according to which it was the main role of late 19th century women to demonstrate wealthiness by being demonstratively, obviously unproductive. Requiring an hour or more for dressing and not being able to dress without the help of a maid would definitely count as being unproductive, so a "wrong way around" buttoning could have been a code telling those in the know that "I have a maid to help me dress!" That would fit nicely with the beginning of left-hand buttoning, but wouldn't have buttons in back, which were used as early as the 1810s, put the point across much more obviously?

Moreover, the late 19th century happened to be the very time when women started to think about such things as emancipation and equality. One of the means they used was the adoption of features of male dress. If left-hand buttons had symbolised female inferiority, it would probably have been given up quite early, using a relatively unspectacular place to signal the new female awareness. But quite contrary: The era when emancipation first is expressed in clothing (the 1849 Bloomer costume) is roughly synchronous to the era when mainly-right buttoning makes way for mainly-left.

This leads me to a completely new theory: Since female clothing took on more and more features of male clothing in order to express emancipation (a process that, I'd like to point out, contemporaries were not aware of) it became necessary to establish a feature that signalled that an item of clothing was, despite its male appearance, nevertheless female. Otherwise someone could be led to believe that the lady wore a man's coat, a man's shirt etc., and use that as a a moral handhold against her since wearing the clothing of the opposite sex was immoral. The closer female clothing got to male clothing, the more important the "little difference" of buttoning became. At the end of the 20th century, the buttoning was the only thing that differentiated a female blouse from a male shirt.

My personal theory, therefore, is that the right-left-differentiation is a result of the gradual approximation of female and male dress and the resulting necessity of distinction. - A. Bender

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Luxurious Wool For Suits

2005-04-19T02:44:00.000-07:00

One of the best, most luxurious wool for suits is the vicuna wool taken from the vicuna of the Andes mountains in South America.

The vicuña is a member of the camel family. It is the smallest of the six species of camel, and is thought to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. It lives on the high, grassland plateaus of the Andes mountains which range from southern Peru to northern Chile and into parts of Bolivia and Argentina. Only tough bunch grasses and festuca grows here. The sun's ultraviolet rays burn through the thin atmosphere during the day. At night the heat of the day escapes into the atmosphere and the temperatures go down to freezing.

Although they look fragile, the vicuña is specially adapted to its high-altitude habitat. It has an incredibly thick, soft coat that traps layers of warm air close to its body and protects it from freezing temperatures. The lower teeth of the vicuña grow constantly, like a rodent's, so they can eat the tough grasses. The vicuña also walks on the soles of its feet so it can flex its toes and grab on to the rocks and gravel-covered slopes. Vicuña milk is very rich so the babies grow quickly.

Vicuñas weigh between 75-140 pounds. They are about 4-6 feet long and stand 2-3 1/2 feet at the shoulders. They have very long necks, round heads, and large, forward facing eyes. Their ears are long and pointed and stand up on their heads. Their fur is a rust color, with white around the muzzle,the chest, belly, and the insides of the legs. The white hair on their chests is longer than their other hair.

Vicuñas graze mostly on grasses. Their teeth are large and grow constantly like those of a rodent. They chew their cud when resting getting more nutrients out of the nutrient poor grass.

Vicuñas are very shy animals and run away very quickly. They have two territories that they defend from other herds; a feeding territory or about 45 acres, and a smaller sleeping area on higher ground where they are more protected. The vicuña live in herds of 5-10 members, which includes one dominant male and several females and their young. They mate in March and April and their young are born 11 months later. The young stay with their mother and the herd for another 10 months, when they are driven off by the herd. Young males will form bachelor groups and the young females try to find another group to join. This ensures that the herd stays the same size, which is important with their limited food supply.

The vicuña was almost hunted to extinction for its beautiful soft wool. The Incas used to round up the wild vicuñas and pen them in stone corrals, where they were sheared for their wool. In modern times they were almost wiped out for their meat and wool. By 1960 there were only 6,000 vicuñas left in the wild. Chile and Peru established protected national parks and put a halt to trade in vicuña wool. Now there are about 125,000 vicuñas, but they are still listed as threatened. The vicuña is classified as vulnerable by the IUCN, and as endangered by the USDI.

We remain with best regards
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Shopping And The Body Type 2 - Large, Extra Large, Mens Jackets, Suits And Trousers

2004-07-30T06:42:00.000-07:00

SHORT, HEAVY MEN - Clothes should also elongate but work to de-emphasize breadth.

Jackets
1. Straighter-cut coat.
2. Two-button single-breasted better than three-button or double-breasted.
3. Besom pocket over flap.
4. Side vent over on vents.
5. Sleeves need to taper down to cuff, cannot be too wide at hand.
6. Fabrics should be dark and smooth, such as fine worsteds.
7. Dark solids, medium-width striping, and herringbones de-emphasize bulk.

Trousers
1. Reverse pleat on trouser keeps front-flat while breaking the expanse of its width.
2. as long a rise as comfortable, fit on natural waist not below protruding stomach.
3. Cuffs assist the transition of the full-cut trouser to the larger-scaled shoe.

Accessories
1. Long straight point collars.
2. Solid ties; patterned ties; ties with stripes or prints with movement.

3. Welt-sole shoes for a more substantial platform; no lightweight, dainty footwear.

Since most people aspire to look like some idealized version of themselves, selecting clothes based on a particular body type is as old as fashion itself. Whereas I believe that familiarity with the geometric principles that downplay girth or emphasize height or breadth is helpful, such information should be viewed as a guide rather than dogma.

I have seen the most well-dressed men wear clothes in stark contradiction to the accepted dictates of fashionable physiognomy. I can recall one portly, older gentleman looking so debonair in his large, plaid, hefty tweed sports suit simply because it was cut to perfection. I am told that no other group of men would parade down Savile Row in the thirties with more panache than the contingent of Brazilian diplomats, most of whom were under five feet seven and all of whom wore their soft-shoulder, double-breasted suits with cuffed trousers. Proportion in dress in the foundation of all classic dressing. The truly stylish man knows enough about the rules to know how and when to break them.

We remain with best regards,
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

My Suit Shop September Update

2004-07-30T06:41:00.000-07:00

Greetings from www.mycustomtailor.com and welcome to our September update

What’s out at Mysuitshop.com? – you would have noticed our recent introduction of the summer collections at our website. With the close of summer, this collection has now been discontinued in preparation for the upcoming holiday and winter season.

What’s new at www.mysuitshop.com - Over the next week, new fabrics of 9 oz and higher is being introduced for the coming cool season. A range of new colours in the existing fabric ranges are being added to our online displays as well.

What’s coming up? – Soon we will be launching a brand new collection of designer fabrics from Zegna, Wein Shield, Dolce and Gabbana and others in a dedicated designer collection a step above the rest. Our recent introduction of these fabrics in our HERITAGE GOLD has met with much enthusiasm encouraging us to offer even more choice in the premier fabric levels. Response has been astounding to the designer collections beyond our expectation. Look out for Zegna and Dolce Gabbanna in the coming weeks.

Extra Special this month - Only via this September Update - Get a special price on 1 Single Breasted Suit, 1 Cotton Shirt and 1 Necktie from our BIG AND TALL COLLECTIONS and an Extra Special price on a package of 2 Single Breasted Suits, 2 Cotton Shirts and 2 Ties from our CLASSIC MENS COLLECTIONS - Only This Month! Only Now! Order it while the Offer is still On!

Tuxedos and Accessories – we have revised our prices and offers for tuxedos and some of the accessories which make our pricing even more attractive than they already were. We recommend you to avail of our special prices in preparation of the holiday season to your advantage.

New Functionality – We have now launched the added ability to do fabric searches using additional criteria such as fabric weights, fabric compositions, fabric patterns and climate for wear. One can also view these fabric characteristics in the fabric lists after style selections. This functionality was much in demand and we found it a nice feature to offer for those not too familiar with the different materials and what is ideal for their sartorial requirements. We hope this added functionality will help make better choices in the type of cloth one would like for ones custom clothing. Over the next few days you will notice all the fabrics displaying their very unique characteristics addressing your needs even better. Soon we will also be adding a rating system for the materials that will show what the most popular fabrics are and how clients who ordered garments in those materials found them to be. This will be a direct feedback on materials that can be so useful in making choices of which fabrics to choose for your custom garments.

New upgrades – Have been introduced with the new option of fully hand basted canvas front on jackets and exclusive bespoke work on custom suits. Your custom made suits and coats can now boast of prime hand sewn canvas and bespoke construction upon demand. It will be harder for Saville row to compete now!

What’s going out ? – We are going to be discontinuing our CloseOuts category in the next couple of weeks. For those who have used our services before, this may be the perfect time to order custom clothing at throwaway prices!

For those who have never availed of our services before, this may be an excellent opportunity to try out our products and services at extremely affordable prices that leave little to risk.

Swatches and Catalogues – Recently introduced are our new Swatch Requisition forms to order swatches and digital catalogues for super fast delivery by courier for a small premium. The cost premium for courier delivery is however refunded using a gift certificate of an equal value. The gift certificate can be redeemed when you place your next order with us. This is so that we can ensure minimal time overlay for those seriously interested in placing an order with us. In essence therefore, the swatches get delivered quickly and efficiently via couriers, at no extra charge whatsoever. Please visit us to order your swatches or our digital catalogues in preparation of the coming season.

Measurements forms – Our measurements forms have been upgraded to reflect even more detail in the patterns we prepare for your custom clothing. We now have begun taking into account the lay of the shoulder, the fall of the arm, the lay of the waist, the back, neck and the ride of the legs to create even better fitting custom garments. May we urge our existing clients who set up measurements profiles quite some time ago, to visit our Measurements forms and add in the additional details as requested so that they can be incorporated into all your future orders.

Accessibility – Has been made even easier for you to get in direct touch with us and a 24 hour hotline has been set up for you at + 66 1 9878717. Please feel free to call us any time of the day, any day of the week at our hotline for immediate addressing of all your queries. For our clients in the USA, we have introduced a local fax number at 17039975593 as an additional, cheaper and more convenient way to communicate with us.

Our Favorite Testimonial this month – By Larry K...........Burr Ridge, Illinois, USA. He has made us proud of what we do. Here is what he says…

Your service has been amazing! I needed a summer suit for a trip to St Thomas Island, but there is nothing like that here in Chicago as the stores have gone into their winter inventory already. So turned to you in desperation, but my friends all thought it was going to be a disaster, ordering suit by mail from someone in another country. It will not come, it will not fit, it will not have any buttons, and the zipper will be in the back they all said. But I kept getting e-mails from you, telling of your progress in making the suit. They made me feel pretty special-- maybe I would get the suit in time, but would it fit? I did not fill out all those measurements on the order form, and just ordered by size. Would you send me something to fit an Asian gentleman? Would the lapels look like the wings of an eagle? Would I look like a German trying to play Charlie Chan? Today I got your e-mail saying it was shipped. I am not kidding you when I say that the United Parcel truck pulled up 10 minutes later and delivered the suit. It looks great. The fit is perfect. I just do not know how you got everything right, even to the length on the pants. Thanks for your great service and professionalism and skill. I will give your card to my friends.

- Thank you Mr. K……we are humbled by your comments and We Promise to do even better!
Created By www.mycustomtailor.com

Update About Price Revision In The Coming Week

2004-07-30T06:34:00.000-07:00

Dear Patrons and Valued friends,

This is a friendly reminder that our pricing is due for a price revision in the coming week.
This is the first price revision since the last two years and addresses the current cost realities.
We will be looking at pricing in all our mens and womens shirt categories through out all the collections over the coming week.
With the increase in the level of workmanship that we have instigated in the last few months and with the additional new features that have constantly been added to our products to increase the value of our custom clothing, we believe the coming cost revisions will effectively help us maintain and infact continue to enhance the quality of our products and services over the coming years.

Please note that any order placed prior to the upcoming price revision will be fulfilled at the current price.
The revisions will also affect the pricing of our wardrobe specials/special offers.
An order can be placed even if measurements have still not been submitted. Fabrics will be booked according to the order and the lower prices will be honored even if the measurements are submitted after the price revision.
We do hope this brief note is of help and we sincerely Thank you for your continued patronage.
With warm regards,
we remain,
your suit makers
at
www.mycustomtailor.com