How to Choose The Right Suit Which Compliment Your Body Type

In this article we will discuss the parts that make up a man's suit. Although off the rack suits afford you little flexibility in adjusting these parts, the man who goes with a bespoke or made to measure suit has the freedom of choosing the option that best compliment his body. In any case, all men should understand the basics of the suit and its parts so that they buy a garment that accentuates their most positive traits.

Single or Double Breasted

The first and perhaps most noticeable element of the suit is whether it is single or double-breasted. Single-breasted suits have a single row of buttons down the front, and the jacket flaps only overlap enough to permit buttoning. A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons, and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. The choice between single- and double-breasted is a matter of personal taste, though the vast majority of American men choose single breasted suits as that this is what is readily available to them; also a lack of familiarity with the double-breasted option may account for the single-breasted suit's dominance. Thin gentlemen, particularly those who are somewhat taller, can benefit greatly from double-breasted suits, as they will give a fuller appearance to the figure; on larger men, double-breasted suits can have a tendency to draw attention to the midsection, so careful attention and an expert tailor should be employed.

Lapels

Lapels come in a variety of styles with a number of options. The lapels' width is perhaps subject to the most variance, with the extremely narrow lapels of the 1950s standing in stark contrast to the excessively wide lapels of the 1970s. As is the case with much of classic fashion, the most timeless lapels are of a moderate width. In addition to different widths, suit lapels come in two styles: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the join. Notched and peaked lapels are equally classic, though the latter are most commonly found on double-breasted jackets. A peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is an excellent way to raise its level of formality, but is almost impossible to find on anything but a custom made suit

Waist Buttons

A suit jacket has either one row of buttons or two, depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket has a single row of buttons, numbering anywhere from one to four, though two and three are the most common. The three-button jacket is the most traditional configuration, taking its cue from English riding jackets; properly worn, it gives the illusion of height. Traditionally, only the middle or second button is fastened when standing, though the top two buttons may be fastened to produce a slightly more formal appearance. Two-button suits are a slightly later innovation, and because they show more of the shirt and tie, can produce a slightly more slimming appearance. Only the top button of a two-button jacket is fastened; with the exception of a jacket with only one button, the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is never fastened.

Double-breasted jackets most commonly have either four or six buttons on each side - where there are six buttons, only the lower four are for buttoning, though due to the design of the suit, only two will actually be buttoned at any given time. There is also an extra hidden button on the reverse of the outside flap of a double-breasted suit, onto which the inside or "hidden" flap attaches. Contrary to the habits of certain celebrities, a double-breasted jacket is never left unbuttoned when standing, permitting it to flap around wildly; it is always securely buttoned upon standing and remains buttoned until one is again seated. Additionally, while the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is always left undone, both of the operable buttons on a double-breasted jacket are fastened. As with the gorge of the lapel, the height of the waist buttons can been altered slightly to accentuate or diminish height, but this must be done carefully.


Sleeve Buttons

There are numerous historical reasons for jacket sleeves bearing buttons, from encouraging the use of handkerchiefs to allowing a gentleman to wash his hands without removing his jacket, a traditionally grave social offense in mixed company. Whatever the reason for their arrival on jacket sleeves, they now form an important part of the detail work or trimming of the jacket. Most traditionally, jacket sleeves bear four buttons, though it is not uncommon to find three. Regardless of number, there should be at least as many of them as there are buttons on the waist, and they are always placed within a half-inch or so of the hem. On bespoke suits, and even some of the higher-quality made-to-measure jackets, the sleeve buttons are functional. When the buttons are functional, there is some temptation to leave one button undone in order to draw attention to the feature - and by extension, the quality of the suit - though this is a matter of personal taste.

Jacket Pockets

The most formal are jetted pockets, where the pocket is sewn into the lining of the jacket and only a narrow horizontal opening appears on the side of the jacket. These pockets, being nearly invisible, contribute to a very sleek, polished appearance, and are most frequently found on formal-wear. The next style, the flap pocket, is slightly less formal, though it is perfectly acceptable in all the circumstances where a gentleman is likely to be found in a suit. Flap pockets are made identically to jetted pockets, but include a flap sewn into the top of the pocket, which covers the pocket's opening. These are the most common pockets on suit jackets, and in the very best, are fabricated so that the wearer may tuck the flaps inside, mimicking the jetted pocket. There are also diagonally-cut flap pockets known as hacking pockets, though they are somewhat less common; the hacking pocket is derived from English riding gear, and is most prominent on bespoke suits from English tailors, particularly those traditionally associated with riding clothes. The least formal are patch pockets, which are exactly what the name implies: pockets created by applying a patch to the outside of the jacket. Patch pockets are the most casual option; they are frequently found on summer suits that would otherwise appear overly formal, as well as on sports jackets.

Ticket pocket

Some jackets, particularly bespoke and finer made-to-measure offerings, include a small ticket pocket above one of the side pockets, generally on the same side as the wearer's dominant hand. This pocket is rarely used in modern times, and serves more as an indication of the suit's quality.

Breast Pocket

Moving up the jacket is the breast pocket, which is always open, and into which only one item is ever placed: the handkerchief or pocket square. The reason for this is twofold: First, like the side pockets, any items placed in the breast pocket create lumpy projections which distort the sleek appearance of the suit, and second, the breast pocket and the inside left pocket share the same space in the jacket's lining, meaning that objects in the breast pocket tend to force items in the inside pocket into the wearer's ribs, which is quite uncomfortable.

Vents

Moving on from pockets we find the vents, flap-like slits in the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets. Jackets have three styles: center, side, or none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits; they provide a very sleek look to the back of the jacket, though they can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down. Center-vented jackets, very popular on American suits, have a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. Because of its placement, center-vented jackets have a habit of exposing the wearer's posterior, though most seem not to mind, as center vents remain the most popular style. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access. Side vents also facilitate sitting more easily, moving as needed to prevent the rumpling of the jacket back, which leads to creasing.

Now that we have an understanding of the parts of a jacket, its time that we learned about proper fit and proportion.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Choosing Mens Suit - A Focus On Color

Most men choose a suits color based off of two factors. The salesman says the color looks good and the man buying the suit can not find anything wrong with it. The problem here is that most men do not know what colors compliment their complexion, and instead of choosing a color that enhances their looks they choose a color that simply fits in.

Have you ever wondered why you see so many men wearing navy blue suits? Its not that this color enhances so many men's natural style; its just men playing the game of safety in numbers. The purpose of this article is to open your eyes to the world of men's suit colors and encourage you to choose a fabric that compliments your individual style.

The Triad: Navy Blue, Black and Charcoal Gray

These three colors dominate the men's suit industry, and for good reason. Most men are complimented by one or more of these dark colors. Dark suits have the ability to seamlessly transition from business to pleasure, in addition to a slimming effect of the silhouette. Let us talk about each color quickly

Navy Blue

Navy blues strength lies in its sheer dominance. Most men own at least one, and if you have ever walked into a business meeting you can be sure more than half the men will be clad in one. But this is its chief weakness; how can you stand out when 90% of your body looks exactly the same as over 50% of the room. We tend to forget that our clothing sends off strong signals, and if you want to be anything but average you want to present yourself as such, not always try to blend in. In addition, those with a very light complexion need to pair navy blue with rich colored shirts; a white or ice blue shirt will drain the color right from their face. Finally, young men are advised to avoid this color as that it has a habit off accentuating youth.

Black

A more difficult color to wear, it is perceived by many as the choice for funerals and weddings. No argument there; however, it is so much more for the man with the right complexion. No other color has such a slimming effect, and depending on the dress shirt it can go from regular office wear to drinks with friends at the hippest nightclubs in New York. The key to wearing black is being a high contrast individual, a man with dark hair with light to medium colored skin. The effect is a properly framed face to where all the attention is drawn.

Charcoal Gray

Charcoal gray suits projects an image of authority, stability, and professionalism. It is an excellent choice for a first suit, especially for young men as that it does accentuate youth (unlike Navy Blue). Although clearly lighter than black or navy blue when placed side by side, it nonetheless is just as acceptable at all business functions and interview situations. Possibly the most versatile color, it looks good with almost any colored shirt imaginable.


Colors more men should consider.

Brown

Brown ranges from a light through a deep chocolate hue. Many men look their best in earth-tones, making the brown suit an important part of their wardrobe; it is also a popular color for causal options including tweed suits and sports jackets. One caveat: until the early 1980s, brown was not considered a color for business (we can thank Ronald Reagan for their return). While the times have changed there are still some members of the old guard who continue to hold to the old rule that brown does not belong in town. This should not dissuade the well-dressed gentleman from wearing brown with confidence, but it is important to be aware.

Tan

The navy suit for warm weather, tan is an excellent choice. Less flashy than white, it none the less commands attention and can set you apart from the crowd while keeping you cool. If you live in a cold weather city, a tan suit is ideal for spring and summer while in a warmer climate it is appropriate year round. The tan suit pairs well with white, light blue, or any pale pastel shirt. Best of all, this gives you the chance to really make your dark ties stand out.

Taupe

A color that falls between gray and brown, taupe is a great choice for the man who has a couple of the basic colored suits in his wardrobe and is looking for a color out of the ordinary that still maintains a professional appearance. Great for use year round, the taupe suit is a little less dressy than a charcoal suit but more likely to draw compliments because of it's ability to compliment a man's finer features.

Light Gray

A great spring and summer color that doesn't draw attention to the wearer but instead signals a suave persona confident in his own skin, light gray is an excellent choice for any complexion. Live in a warmer climate? Then light gray is appropriate year round. The light gray suit pairs well with white, light blue, and almost any pale colored shirt, although if you are light complected you may want to go with a bolder hue.

White

The Classic color of summer. You don't have to be Tom Wolfe to stay cool and look great. White compliments all but the lightest complexions, and even then the right shirt choice can remedy that situation. The key to wearing a white suit is confidence, especially in the United States where a suit in this color is hard to come by.


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What To Wear With Men Blazer Jacket

The beauty of the men's blazer is that it goes with almost anything. For the purpose of this discourse, by blazer we mean a classic single-breasted navy wool coat with brass buttons. Over gray flannel slacks, a white button-down oxford shirt and a striped tie, it makes a classic outfit that in the United States registers just shy of a suit on the formality scale. On the weekend, the same blazer over chinos and a polo shirt makes a very smart casual outfit. In this article we will discuss some basic means of wearing a men's blazer jacket for work and leisure.

If you work in a business casual office, the blazer gives you a simple solution to the tricky problem of dressing respectably without appearing aloof. In a workplace dominated by polo shirts and khakis, the man who has the class to throw a blazer on over the ensemble looks distinctive without standing out. A dress shirt with a button-down collar and gray flannels are also worthy accompaniments for a blazer; add a tie to take it up a notch. A point collar shirt formalizes the ensemble a tad more, and here one should stop. Contrast collars really belong under a suit, and even if the formality of French cuffs were not an issue, having cuff-links next to brass sleeve buttons creates a discordant clash. For footwear, bluchers, loafers, and monk-strap dress shoes are all good options.

The outfits described above are also smart choices for dinner in a nice restaurant or a morning religious service. In fact, the blazer will serve you well for most weekend activities, from taking in a play in most American cities to cheering on a girls' softball team. It looks aristocratic and dignified over an ecru turtleneck and your trusty gray flannels; for a laid-back look in the summer wear it with off-white pants and a bright polo. While it is perfectly acceptable to wear a blazer with jeans, and indeed the combination can look very stylish, one must take care that pants and coat are not too close in color. This goes for any jacket and pants combination: if it's not a suit, it shouldn't look like one from a distance.


When it comes to dress shirts, as said above a button-down oxford is the classic. Besides solids, a broad variety of stripes and checks, including many that would look garish with a suit, mix well with a blazer. The latter's dark, solid fabric looks good next to just about anything, and the shiny buttons amply counterweight bold patterns. For a more casual look go with a long-sleeve polo shirt or a turtleneck depending on the climate. The urbane silk tee-shirt and tight-fitting knit shirt tend to clash in their modernity with the blazer's long heritage, and work better with a suit jacket.

In cooler weather, you way want to don a sweater under your blazer jacket. If you're going without a tie, a cable-knit or argyle crew-neck will add some life to the outfit. The V-neck worn over a tie may also be patterned or textured, but can be solid as well.

A few words on neckwear and accessories: the tie you wear with a blazer should be in

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Invest In Custom Clothing - It Pays

The Importance of Proper Fit

Dress clothes should always be comfortable. If they are not, it is the fault of the clothes' fit, and not of their nature. If the fit of a garment makes its wearer uncomfortable, he will look it; indeed a man looks his best when his clothes fit so well he barely notices them. The clothes send a message to the world about you, and if they fit is well, then it will always make a good impression.

Unfortunately most men today wear poorly fitting clothes; it's not their fault though, as that the clothing sold in stores is cut to fit as many people as possible. When buying a garment the retailer is often of little help, as that the department stores rarely have a salesman on staff that has a deep understanding of fit. Thus as in so many things it falls to each person to take responsibility for the fit of his own clothes and not to be swayed by the prolific selection of poor choices or the dubious influence of models or salesmen.

Proper Fit - Dress Shirt

A dress shirt's yoke or shoulders should cover the shoulders and nothing more; the shoulder point should not extend down his sleeves. As for the sleeves, you want a shirt with enough fabric so that when you rotate your arms and hold them out from your sides all of your arm remains covered; close fitting cuffs will help with this. You want anywhere from 3 to 6 inches of play in both your stomach and chest areas, and the shirt should be long enough so that when you bend over it doesn't un-tuck from the back or sides. Finally, the neck collar, when buttoned, should be tight enough to fit no more than two fingers in the space between collar and skin.

Proper Fit - Suit Jacket

A jacket must fit correctly in the chest and shoulders, as that these are very difficult to alter and in some situations downright impossible to adjust. When you stand with your jacket buttoned and arms hanging at your sides, the jacket's lapels should lie flat against the front panels, the buttons should hang close to or rest lightly on your stomach, and your biceps should just barely break the drape of sleeve from shoulder. If you tug on the top button, you should have enough room to easily slide your hand in between your lapels and chest, but not enough room so you can slide in your fist. As for your stomach, you should not be able to see it pull more than 3 inches from your belly. Of course, all of this depends on the fit you feel comfortable with. Sleeve length should end at about the wrist, although the exact point is also a matter of taste. As for the relationship between the shirt and the jacket: The shirt's cuffs should protrude approximately ½ inch from the jacket's sleeves when you stand with arms hanging. The shirt's collar should protrude about ½ -1 inch above the jacket collar, with both of them slightly touching.


Proper Fit - Trousers

Pants or trousers should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. Young people with flat stomachs may choose to wear them lower but they gain little in doing so. The man with a belly, on the other hand, looks much better with high-rise trousers draping from his middle than with his stomach spilling over a low-rise waistband; for this he should consider suspenders. Trouser bottoms should touch the upper part of the front of the shoes and should brush the top edge of the sole at the shoe back; a single break in the front is considered perfect by most, but shorter pant legs that just brush the tops of the shoes can look better on the shorter person.
Shorter men tend to do better without cuffs on their trousers, but should they want them they should be in proportion to their stature.

How to get the perfect fit?

Off-the-rack clothing is designed for the hypothetical model - for each brand, this person's dimensions change a bit, but unfortunately these measurements are never very close to yours. How can you get a proper fit?

Your alteration specialist - A good alteration specialist can do wonders for clothing that somewhat fits you. They can bring in waists, shorten sleeves, and open up room in the stomach after the holidays. The limit here is that they can often only alter an imperfect garment; in the end it is still imperfect.

Invest in Custom Clothing - Notice I use the term invest; this is because owning clothing that is made to compliment your features is a smart move for anyone. The beauty of custom clothing is that it is designed with your measurements; by its very nature it fits you better than anything else in your closet, and as a result will look better than anything you've ever worn.

It is a wonderful feeling to wear garments that fit you perfectly. One feels light and comfortable as the clothes seem to float around the body, neither heavy nor tight anywhere but rather resting evenly throughout. A person in clothing that fits feels confident and free to focus on the task at hand.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Power Outfit

Make sure your clothes are statement makers, but that the statement never speaks louder than you do. Just because you can afford designer logos doesn’t mean they’re right for you. Are they compatible with your professional message? And just because you can buy the very best suits doesn’t absolve you from needing the services of the very best tailor.

CLOTHES NO LONGER TALK, THEY COMMAND
A woman in a position of authority must project an equal amount of distinction in her dress up. The cornerstone of the power wardrobe is still the suit, but at this stage of the game, it packs an extra punch.

Now it’s time to fine-tune your wardrobe with clothes of exceptional quality and unmistakable style. The goal: A closet full of statement making clothes that communicate success. To cultivate a collection that convey personal and professional style; and to dress, when the situation demands, casually but with authority.

Bespoke Single-Breasted
The most formal of suits, the single-breasted version has sharp lines, and notched lapel give a disciplined buttoned-up feel that adds up to create an impression of powerful authority. Fabric is a key; at this stage, a suit is only as good as its fabric. Look for light, almost silky wool that has a graceful drape and doesn’t wrinkle easily.

A tailor made straight skirt to the knee, slightly nipped-in waist, an impeccable fit. For ultimate conviction, pair with a crisp white shirt. Make sure the collar lies flat on the suit lapels. Keep buttoned up except for either top or bottom button.

Coat dress
There is no mistaking the seriousness of the business when the fabric is worked in a menswear pattern: Pinstripes, Chalk Stripes, Glen Plaids, Mini Hounds tooth are all boardroom contenders.

For a more relaxed alternative consider pairing with a black turtleneck, knee-high boots and opaque tights in fall or winter. If belted, consider replacing the companion belt with one of higher caliber.


Long Jacket
The self-assured silhouette only works when the jacket is fitted anything loose will look frumpy ; and it must be worn only with its matching companion piece, whether it’s a skirt, dress, or pants.

A single-breasted jacket, pocket flaps that lie flat, with a shirt in a similar hue, a scoop-neck cashmere sweater, or nothing but a set of pearls, all combines together an elegant authority.

Color is POWERFUL.
RED = Confidence, leadership, independence. Useful for presentations; shows security in one’s role. Attracts attention

Color is quick means of communicating authority and style. A power color is an added asset: It commands attention, conveys control, and, when properly chosen, sends a consistent message about your workplace identity.

ALL BLACK = Serious sophisticated, determined powerful and practical in urban environments.

Own a color Pick a shade you like and make it your own. Wear it consistently. Choose one or two other colors that complement your personal uniform. A monochromatic look a suit and shirt of matching colors has high impact and is also elongating.

Pattern
Patterns pilfered from menswear can pack masculine punch, while adding texture and diversity to your wardrobe. Balancing bold pattern with a simple tailored silhouette and feminine detail is a key.

Quantity Counts: Composed of highly designed, coordinated pieces, a power suit makes a statement. And a statement is remembered. Therefore owning just one or two is not sufficient. At this stage of the game, you need, and can afford more.

Tailor: A tailor you trust implicitly is crucial. Valuable traits to look for: Utter expertise in what is possible and what is not. Invisible hand work, Thoroughness - someone who when hemming pants, measures both the front and the back; when altering a skirt, measures from the floor up; someone who teaches you. Mouth is the best reference.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Perfect Interview Wardrobe

Interview Wardrobe

The clothes you choose to wear to your interview will create the first-and most important-impression upon those who matter, up until your first day on the job. At that point, you can start to relax into the club’s attire. But at this point, dressing to impress is mandatory, and the clothes you choose are critical. This section discusses the interview wardrobe’s key pieces, and the messages they send.
“At one time, the most qualified person got the job. Today, in a situation where three people with equal qualification are interviewed for a job, the one with the best communication skills gets it.”

WHAT DO YOUR CLOTHES SAY TO THE INTERVIEWER?

BLOUSE
Uptight or Elegant?
PEARLS Pretentious or Pulled together?

SUIT JACKET

Suit Jacket Long ago pilfered from menswear , the jacket acts a strong, no-nonsense centerpiece to any business look. It gives the body shape, suggests stature, and imparts the wearer with confidence. Because its overall intent is to convey power, a jacket’s workmanship, quality, and tailoring are critical.

FABRIC Should drape smoothly, not appear stiff, shiny, or flimsy.
COLOR Neural-black, gray, navy’ or beige.
SHAPE Slightly nipped in at waist.
POCKETS Optional pockets lie flat and are lined. Do not remove string to open.
LENGTH Hem extends to the bottom of the hips.
SLEEVES Sleeves land at the base of the thumb.
COLLAR Collar lies smooth and flat against the neck.
SHOULDERS Shoulders are structured but not overpadded.
LAPELS Medium to small lapels<3”1/4 from seam to point is ideal> lie flat without buckling.
FIT Armholes should fit well-not too baddy, no too tight; this part of the jacket can’t be tailored.
STYLE Single-breasted.
BUTTONS Buttons are the same color or darker than the suit and never too large, flashy, or covered in fabric.


Suit Skirt

WHAT IT SAYS
Formal, urban, conservative.
FABRIC Drapes smoothly.
NO BELT LOOPS
SHAPE Simple-a-lime or straight, not too tight and never frilly.
DETAILS For maximun versatility, the waist should not require a belt.
FIT Skirt should not be too tight or too short-do a sitting text in tit before purchasing. Check the rearview mirror. What look fabulous from the front can cling or slouch from other angles.
QUALITY Make sure seams are even and not pulled. Check that lining is firmly intact.
LENGTH To the knee. It’s the length that says, “I’m professional” and looks best on most legs. Shorter could be considered too fashiony; longer, more traditional.


Suit Pants
WHAT IT SAYS
Confident, contemporary, practical.
FIT Pants should drape smoothly over the body, with no tight areas that droop. Check that the pocket lining is smooth and not bulky.
OUALITY Check that fabric hangs evenly and seams are not mismatched or pulled.
THE BOTTOM LINE The seat of the pants should be neither overly baggy nor clingy. To ensure proper fit, check your rearview mirror and sit down while wearing the pants.
ZIP CODE Side, front, or rear closure are acceptable.
BANISH BELT LOOPS
For your first suit, a clean waistline is the most flexible. Belt loops always require a belt and that your top is tucked in.
FLAT FRONT VS. PLEATS
Both are professional; the flat front is more slimming and sophisticated.
LENGTH
The pant leg should break at the instep. When having your pants hemmed, bring the shoe you will most often wear with them.
CUFFED LEG VS. CLEAN
Both are acceptable; a clean leg is more versatile.

Tops are key wardrobe enhancers: Change your top and essentially you’ve changed your look. Choose shirts and that are compatible with your suits. Make sure each top fits comfortably under your suit jacket-and looks suitably professional should you take your jacket off.
BLOUSE
A soft, somewhat loose feminine top. Conservative, confident, ladylike. FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, cream, black, or a color to match your suit.
SHIRT
Button-front, cuffed-and-collared top inspired by menswear. Efficient, classic; respects authority. Choose a classic, men’s style dress collar; a button-down can be limiting. FIRST PURCHASE; Solid, white cotton.
T-SHIRT
Trim, collarless, cotton or jersey top. Easygoing but organized. Ready to roll up your sleeves Choose substantial, opaque cotton or cotton blend with stretch-anything flimsy will lose its shape. Make sure neck is not saggy or baggy. Keep it plain . Try a shot of color.

FIRST PURCHASE: Solid white, black, or to match the color of your suit.
1 JACKET+4 TOPS = 3 DRESS CODES
Shoes

Never underestimate the power of shoes. A good pair can make a ho-hum dress look like a million bucks. The wrong ones can send a great suit straight into the gutter. Shoes also tend to make at-a-glance statements about your workplace identity, and your message better be clear-I’m capable, confident, and yes, great with derails.

Portfolio
A portfolio is a sleek and efficient alternative to the handbag. It can help keep resumes presentable, hold a notepad, and conceal any preinterview cheat sheets you want to study en route to your meeting.


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Right Suit For Your Body

Which Suit Is Right For You?

Choosing the right suit presents a closet-full of challenges and opportunities to those faced with building a wardrobe. From suit silhouettes, pricing and fashionable obsolescence to pant fronts, button counts and lapel widths, there's much to consider.

"The biggest problem in teaching men how to dress is that there's no one for them to look at," says Alan Flusser, author of Dressing the Man (Harper Collins, 2002), who believes that one of the primary reasons business casual failed is that the apparel industry never showed men how to look good in it. "Men in general definitely need help with suits. But once it's explained why they should buy a particular garment, they're pretty quick studies."

Suits can be broken down into three basic styles:
European (i.e., Italian), British and American. The European suit typically has padded shoulders, no vents, a full-chested and V-shaped jacket and "slash"--i.e., flapless--pockets. Across the English Channel, the classic British suit sports a military demeanor with padded shoulders, two vents, pinched waist, flap pockets and boldly striped or plaid patterns. On our side of the pond, the epitome of traditional American styling is the "sack suit" favored by Ivy Leaguers back in the 1920s, with natural shoulders, one vent in the back, straight-hanging lines and flap pockets. Many designers cross cultural lines, such as Bronx native Ralph Lauren, who has a distinct Anglo-Saxon sensibility, and the Italianesque ensembles of American Joseph Abboud.

For tailoring options, the bespoke suit is the finest. Best exemplified by the enduring shops of London's Savile Row, such as Anderson & Sheppard and H. Huntsman, bespoke suits are created by exacting teams of highly skilled tailors and artisans to fit your every inch. They may take up to five fittings and six weeks of work to complete, and starting prices run upwards of $3,000. Meanwhile, Hong Kong is loaded with bespoke tailors who, though not the bargain they used to be, can still get you fitted nicely--and for a lot less than three grand.


Off-the-rack suits are the least costly and the most convenient option, provided you're happy with the fabric and fit. But these days many suit makers also offer a "made-to-measure" alternative that allows customers to choose the fabric, styling options and details before allowing a tailor to take measurements and forward the order to the factory. A semi-finished suit is then returned to the store for fitting and finishing. Brioni, Kiton, Hickey-Freeman and others offer made-to-measure lines, as do specialty men's stores such as Louis Boston. Expect prices to run 15%-25% above off-the-rack.

Whatever the tailoring option, men's suits are either "full canvas"--i.e., handmade with a free-floating piece of material between the jacket's exterior fabric and interior lining--"fused" together with glue, or some combination of the two. The benefits of full-canvas construction include attention to detail, durability and a freer and more natural appearance. Though fused suits tend to be stiffer and their glue breaks down over time, they are also vastly more affordable, with prices ranging from $200 to $1,000.

Suit fabrics come in a wide array of colors, patterns and qualities: Hickey-Freeman has some 700 swatches available for special order, while H. Huntsman's wools range from Super 90s to Super 200s--a grading designation that refers to the number of centimeters a single piece of yarn can be stretched. The longer the stretch, the higher the quality, the more luxurious the feel and the lighter the weight of the yarn.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com